Evening Standard

Sommeliers raise a glass to device that extracts top-price wine through the cork

- Rod Kitson

INNOVATION­S in the wine trade are dr iv i ng a boom in t he i ndust r y in London, according to leading bar and restaurant bosses.

The developmen­t of high- tech devices that allow wine to be extracted without removing the cork means customers can now buy toppriced wines by the glass rather than paying for a whole bottle.

Guido Cenciotti-Alterocca, head sommelier at Enoteca Rabezzana in Farringdon, said: “We can offer over 200 varieties by the glass — if we didn’t have the technology we’d only be able to offer about 10. We can promote micro-producers and give better choice. That is a massive incentive for customers to come back.”

Smaller locations like Mr CenciottiA­l te rocca’s favour single-bottle devices like the Coravin, which uses argon gas to replace air in the bottle as wine is extracted via a needle through the cork.

More costly multi-bottle cabinets like the Enomatic and By The Glass machines have been inst alled in larger premises including M restaurant in the City.

Boss Martin Williams said: “People find it a very accessible way of trying wine. A lot of guests do a wine tasting instead of having a cocktail.

“If you open a bottle now you can keep it for months. Restaurate­urs are getting used to opening bottles that traditiona­lly they wouldn’t.”

Miles MacInnes, sales director at Jascots, which supplies about 100 restaurant­s and bars in the capital, said: “It’s early days, but we’re starting to see more demand for it.” The larger machines cost around £1,000 per bottle space, Mr MacInnes said, but he added: “What’s been proven is that places that have this system sell a lot more wine.

“It’s going hand-in-hand with the growth of the wine industry in this country.”

The smaller devices are under £300, Mr Cenciotti-Alterocca said. “Doing it this way demystifie­s all the pompousnes­s surroundin­g wine. As a re sult , people are di scovering wines they wouldn’t have thought about ordering before.”

 ??  ?? Innovation: the Coravin in action at Enoteca Rabezzana in Farringdon. It uses argon gas to replace air in the bottle as wine is extracted via a needle
Innovation: the Coravin in action at Enoteca Rabezzana in Farringdon. It uses argon gas to replace air in the bottle as wine is extracted via a needle

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