We are the restaurant capital of the world

London’s openness to global ingredients, wines, people and culinary traditions put us above Paris or New York

good food and great architectural and interior design, creating the feeling that eating out was as much about entertainment as it was food and drink. He also cleverly tuned his retailing skills to sell the desirable crockery, glassware or ashtrays in his iconic establishments. So covetable were the artefacts at a Conran restaurant that some customers made a sport out of trying to steal an ashtray without it being added to the bill as an extra!

Corbin and King are the twin colossi when it comes to influencing the way we eat in London. From Le Caprice in the early Eighties to The Ivy in 1990, and then J Sheekey in 1998, these two legendary restaurateurs revolutionised the idea of service and glamour, serving all strata of London society. They understood the finesse of hospitality at its best, and still do. They have not only built some of the finest spaces in London today but have trained a generation (or two), who are operating front-of-house across so many of our greatest establishments.

What all these influential figures had in common was the genuine understanding that to succeed in the restaurant world you have to be inclusive, welcoming everyone who dines or works in your establishment. The multicultural flavour of the city helped make what they do possible. Perhaps in these uncertain times of Brexit, it’s worth reflecting that it has been our openness within the food world to global ingredients, wines, people and culinary traditions which has made our restaurant trade so successful in the capital.

The celebration of people coming together to break bread is a powerful experience for everyone from all cultures and backgrounds. It can often be a calming influence in helping people to recover from disputes and to heal divides.

When we celebrate London Food Month later this year, we would do well to remember that we are the World’s Culinary Capital for good reason.

Ewan Venters is the chief executive officer of Fortnum & Mason

@ewanventers