This year, the mince pie has evolved into doughnuts, ice creams and croissants, says
Food Susannah Butter
THE mince pie is a product of colonialism. In the 13th century, English crusaders returned home inspired by Middle Eastern cooking, which mixed fruit, spices and meat. They combined it with traditional pastry and a classic was born. This year it has been reincarnated again. Good things come in many forms — here’s where to get a pieful.
The croissant
The French are not content to merely enjoy an English creation — they have to give it their own spin. But when it comes to pastry, the more takes on it the better — and the mince pie croissant represents cross-Channel collaboration at its best. The centre is mincemeat as we know it, sweet and fruity, the outside is light buttery layers of croissant dusted with icing sugar. Bakery Paul calls this hybrid the Croissant Nicholas, which sounds more sophisticated than “mince pie croissant”. It’s also doing traditional mince pies as well as three alt versions with apple crumble, chocolate and pecan nut inside.
£1.75, paul.com
The doughnut
Bread Ahead is embracing the festive season with a Christmas pudding doughnut filled with fruity custard and topped with a gingerbread star, launching on December 1. Pick one up at Borough Market or at the new Mayfair shop. It also does proper mince pies for purists. Other Christmas doughnuts (it’s a thing now) include Doughnut Time’s efforts at its Winter Wonderland popup. There are four to choose from. £2.50, breadahead.com; from £2, doughnuttime.com
The chocolate twist
London chocolatier Paul A Young has pimped his fudgy chocolate brownies for Christmas, adding homemade mincemeat and encasing the whole affair in sweet pastry. It’s a winner.
The star bake
Blondies Kitchen, founded by gelupo.com; dominiqueansellondon. com; maggie-jones.co.uk; blondieskitchen.co.uk
@susannahbutter