Evening Standard

They don’t make them like Roberto Cavalli any more, perhaps that’s a good thing

- Victoria Moss

ROBERTO CAVALLI, the larger than leopard print perma-tanned Italian, who died on Friday night, aged 83, was the kind of fashion designer you don’t encounter so much these days. His singular style was nothing short of decadent and he stole his best ideas from nature, with animal print everywhere. “I started to appreciate that even fish have a fantastic coloured ‘dress’, so does the snake, and the tiger. I start[ed] to understand that God is really the best designer, so I started to copy God.”

His fashion shows in Milan, usually in the evening accompanie­d by a glass of champagne, were overtly, obviously glamorous. Super-tanned, super-slim models, fabric slashed around flesh, heels high and hair glossy. One featured a flaming ring of real fire, placed inside a pop-up tent during a boiling hot Milanese day. It was pure fantasy fur-coat-never-bother-with-knickers stuff, which fitted his heyday moment during the late Nineties and Noughties. Victoria Beckham’s Baden-Baden Wag era would have been nothing without his wardrobe contributi­ons; she even walked in one of his creations — a slashed gown in oceanic green and blue — at a Monte Carlo charity fashion show in 2005, below (with Cavalli). Queen of bling Jennifer Lopez was also a fan; her boho-fabulous looks were all his, which gave the vibe of bacchanali­an Saint-Tropez yacht party wherever you were in the world.

At his peak there was no expense spared, as he invited glamorous celebritie­s (including Sharon Stone, Kylie Minogue and Cara Delevingne) and magazine editors to recline on his five bedroom, French-Riviera-moored superyacht bedecked with leopard print furnishing­s (obvs), Cavalli crockery (also leopard print) and his own brand of vodka. Cavalli was a lifestyle which those brash enough could lose themselves in.

When he revamped his Sloane Street store, the afterparty was held at Battersea Power Station (then very much in its pre-glow-up era). Inside the walls had been covered in leopard print, tables were piled high with acres of antipasti shipped over from Italy, and Eve sang to a Cavalli-cocktailed-up crowd. Cavalli, ever the character, wrote up his diary of the occasion for the Standard: “After the party, I tell you, I will cry for 15 minutes. I suffer from claustroph­obia so it sometimes gets too much and I have to call for my nurse and she will calm me down with some pills.”

Cavalli’s own personal life was as colourful as his barely there swimwear.

His fashion shows were overtly glamorous — supertanne­d, super-slim models, fabric slashes around flesh

The thrice-married Florentine-born designer met his second wife, Eva, while a judge at a 1977 Miss Universe contest (she was Miss Austria); three children later they divorced in 2010. Cavalli moved on to Swedish ex-Playboy model, 38-year-old Sandra Nilsson, who gave birth to a son, his sixth child, last year.

Cavalli’s aesthetic and outlook was very much of its pre-Me Too era. His label was an extension of himself — and since he sold it in 2014, its revolving door of designers has never quite captured the spirit he once had. Perhaps, however, that’s for the best.

• Victoria Moss is Fashion Director of the Evening Standard and ES Magazine

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