Where chefs shop: the foodies’ secret spots in London
From where to get the best mangoes in town to the need-to-know butchers, the experts tell Mike Daw their go-to delis and grocers
COOKING might be one of life’s great pleasures, but even the best recipes are let down by flavourless veggies with much the same texture as plastic, or worryingly indeterminate meat and fish. If you’re wondering whether it’s, say, beef or lamb in front of you, it’s time to change where you shop. Handy, then, that London’s top culinary talent have shared their secrets. From apothecary-style herb-and-spice slingers in Elephant and Castle to the finest west London butchers, this is where chefs go for their produce — and where you can too.
HG Walter, Baron’s Court Chosen by Tom Booton, Tom Booton at The Dorchester
“For me, HG Walter (51 Palliser Road, W14 9EB, hgwalter.com) is the best. It’s a legendary family-run butcher and I use them at The Dorchester, as well as in my kitchen at home. They deliver straight to your door and in my experience, have some of the highest quality meat on the market. We use their ribeye for the restaurant but when I’m at home, I go for their homemade kebabs. Properly tasty!”
Turkish Food Centre, Dalston Chosen by Mursal Saiq, Cue Point
“When trying to recreate dishes that rely on ingredients from a land one can’t visit, it means finding the closest alternatives. I highly recommend the Turkish Food Centre, known as TFC, in Dalston (89 Ridley Road, E8 2NH, tfcsupermarkets.com), as well as the Ridley Road Market (Ridley Road, E8 2NP, hackney.gov.uk). Supporting this area and keeping it fiscally alive is important, as Ridley Road is a core historical food centre for east Londoners. Growing up, Hackney was still recognised as a safe hub for immigrants and recently displaced refugees and shops like TFC were the only places to source ingredients for traditional recipes — especially to find spices, the correct brand of yoghurt or the rice needed for that perfect kabuli pilau.”
Quality Foods, Southall Chosen by Chet Sharma, BiBi Mayfair
“I don’t think BiBi would function without Quality Foods (QF) in Southall (47-61 South Road, UB1 1SQ, qualityfoodsonline.com). We source almost all our fresh produce from the UK, and our spices from small-scale artisans in India. But for exotic fruits, nothing replaces a proper Indian cash-and-carry for quality control. Now, in mango season, I can go to the shop, feel, smell and touch every mango we use in the restaurant, with two or three trips to QF. Thank god for the Lizzy line!”
Brindisa, Borough Market Chosen by Mike Davies, the Camberwell Arms
“We’ve long been fans of Brindisa, whose warehouses in Balham are close to the Camberwell Arms. While they’re best known for their deli in Borough Market Brindisa’s (Floral Hall, Borough Market, SE1 9AF, brindisa.com), you can also buy their exceptional produce online. At home, I use the Ibérico pork fat from the jar — it can be a substitute for butter in recipes such as cornbread, or anywhere you need a rich, meaty boost. I also use it to enhance simple pork chops, leaving the cooked pork to rest, smothered in fat, and then using those infused juices to dress the meat once carved.”
Esme’s, Brixton Chosen by April Jackson, Wood & Water, SideChick
“For great Jamaican ingredients, it has to be Esme’s in Brixton (Unit 16A, Market Row, SW9 8LD, brixtonvillage.com). She ships the best of Jamaican produce and has been in the market for years. She’s my go-to for speciality herbs and ingredients. Esme is a lady of a certain generation who has the knowledge — and island charm — that she is proud to share with her customers. She is a joy to visit. I never leave her without smiling, because she reminds me so much of home.”
Ted’s Veg, Bermondsey Chosen by Rishim Sachdeva, Tendril
“As a plant-based restaurant, we use a lot of potatoes, and purple potatoes are a go-to ingredient for me. They’re available for a lot of the year and we use them throughout the week. They’re packed with antioxidants and are really versatile. I think they are at their best when simply roasted in a soy marinade, as the natural sweetness of the potato really compliments the salt, and served with a fresh, citrusy Asianstyle salad. We source ours from Ted’s Veg (8 Stoney Street, SE1 1TL, tedsveg. co.uk) — a great supplier that I’ve been going to for over five years now.”
Natoora, across London Chosen by Nancy Silverton, Pizzeria Mozza
“I use Natoora (245 Pavilion Road, SW1X 0BP and across London, natoora.com) for their Italian fresh fruit and vegetables. They do wholesale and retail, plus they have shops in London that are open to the public — perfect for the home cook. Their pumpkins in the autumn for example are outstanding and we’re currently using Natoora for their rocket, which we use on the prosciutto pizza. I particularly like the strong peppery notes that their rocket has.”
G Baldwin and Co, Elephant and Castle Chosen by Ryan Chetiyawardana, Lyaness
“G Baldwin & Co (171173 Walworth Road, SE17 1RW, baldwins.co.uk) is where we get things like mallow root for our Royale Old Fashioned cocktail. Some other great suppliers to flag would be Bermondsey Street Bees (Roundbush Farm, Great Totham, Essex CM9 8BZ, bermondseystreetbees.co.uk), Rare Tea Company (online only, rareteacompany.com) and Sous Chef (online only, souschef.co.uk), but I also wholeheartedly recommend All Greens (109 Newington Green Road, N1 4QY, and across London, allgreens. co.uk). I use the one in Newington Green for all my fresh ingredients and they eclipse what you’d get from a supermarket, plus you get the added benefit of no packaging, and you can buy in the exact quantities you need.”
Fin and Flounder, Broadway Market Chosen by Ollie Bass, Faber
“East London has one of the best fishmongers going, Fin and Flounder (71 Broadway Market, E8 4PH, finandflounder.com), which not only supply some of the best restaurants, but also have a shop on Broadway Market selling the very same stock. Sam, Brendon and the whole team are so approachable; you’re not only buying the best fish, but you can also get some solid advice on how to cook it too. We highly recommend the John Dory and the turbot. We also use Portland Shellfish (online only, shop. portlandshellfish.co.uk), which has been a consistent and trustworthy partner to us providing incredible ingredients sourced both locally in the Portland estuary and around the UK. The online shop means you are getting
A-grade shellfish that’s used in some of the best restaurants, and their website has recipes from some of the best seafood chefs out there. Try the fantastic Orkney langoustines, the best around!”
Swaledale butcher, online Chosen by Tim Siadatan, Padella and Trullo
“We source all our beef shin and many other meats from Swaledale (online at swaledale.co.uk), a supplier I also rely on in my personal cooking endeavours. We place immense trust in the origins of their meat, and it always tastes delicious. Swaledale provides a variety of cuts, from unique breeds to traditional favourites, all while supporting small farms in and around Yorkshire, ensuring top-notch quality that rivals the best high-end butchers.”
Dorset Snails, online
Chosen by Anna Søgaard, Bistro Freddie
“One of my favourite suppliers is Dorset Snails (48 Uddens Trading Estate, Wimborne BH21 7NL, dorsetsnails.co.uk) — they’re a wonderful family-run snail farm in the heart of the Dorset countryside. They have a web shop where they sell raw and cooked snails, as well as escargot ready for the oven in their homemade garlic butter, which would be perfect for a dinner party at home. Or, if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, their blanched snails are perfect for braising in a ragu.”