ST BARTS
Lobster, accras and smoked tiger shark
To give the island its full title, St Barthélemy was named after Christopher Colombus’s brother Bartholomew, who first discovered it. With an area of just 25sq km, no natural water supply and a craggy surface unsuited to sugar cultivation, it was never used for plantations and slaves weren’t introduced in large numbers. Because of this, its population consists primarily of descendants of the first European settlers.
Today about 9,000 people call this paradisical tuft their home but a quick peak in the phone book will reveal the same five or six surnames over and over. You’re likely to find them all represented at La Cantina, a low-key bar that specialises in fiery creole flavours. It buzzes in the late afternoon when workers come in to replenish their energy with tuffed crab, and again late in the evening when they finish their shifts. A humble, open-air grill, it boasts some of the best views of Gustavia’s harbour. Order ti’punch, a traditional West Indian aperitif of white rum, sugar and lime, as well as plates piled high with accras. These addictive, deep-fried fritters combine codfish and flour and are the islanders’ snack of choice. They’re traditionally plated up alongside a tomato sauce that is so hot it will feel like it’s taking the skin off your tongue if you have too much.
Since 1984, Maya’s has been a byword for quality local cuisine. The eponymous chef-owner grew up on the neighbouring island of Guadeloupe, which has plenty of rich agricultural land. Her connections there ensure she always serves the freshest produce on the island. The tomatoes in her simple tomato and mango salad are as plump as overstuffed cushions and the menu changes daily to reflect what the fishermen have netted that day. Think wahoo ceviche, grilled mahi-mahi, red snapper and lobster accompanied with homemade mayonnaise. This is a somewhat open secret and bookings are essential.
Due to strict conservation efforts, locally caught fish can be difficult to come by, meaning lots of the seafood is imported. However, you can track down the real thing at New Born, an unpretentious creole restaurant run by a father-and-son team who catch everything themselves. Pick your own lobster from the huge water tanks outside and make sure you don’t miss the cold-smoked tiger shark, the restaurant’s signature dish.
If this has whet your appetite for fish caught fresh from the Caribbean Sea, it doesn’t get much better than the island’s two seafood markets. Gustavia’s is open every day from 6am until midday and can be found opposite the pharmacy, while Lorient’s is even more low-key. Before the hill that leads to Camaruche you’ll stumble across a couple of stalls, where the fishermen
stop off on their way home to sell any of the extra tuna and lobster that they have caught that morning.