Food glossary
Adega A traditional winery or cellar
Alho Garlic, widely used in Portuguese cooking
Almôndegas Meatballs made with pork, paprika and onion Azeitonas Olives, Portugal has about 30 indigenous varieties Bacalhau Dried salt cod is a staple, known as fiel amigo (loyal friend) Cabrito assado Kid goat, slow-roasted and served with potatoes Caldeirada de peixe Fish stew similar to a French bouillabaisse Cataplana A Moorish dish which was first introduced to Portugal in the 8th century. Ingredients vary but it always includes some white fish, potatoes, seafood, peppers and a hint of chilli
Dobrada Tripe stew, typically served with butter beans and chorizo Imperial Regular glass size for beer
Morcela Black pudding, made with beef blood, pork fat, garlic and spices, including cloves and cumin
Pastéis de nata Slightly burnt egg custard in a puff pastry shell.
The best ones can be found at Pastéis de Belém
Piri piri sauce A chilli sauce synonymous with chargrilled chicken Queijadas de Sintra Sweet cheese-based cinnamon pastry produced in the town of Sintra, a 20-minute drive from Lisbon Sardinhas Don’t leave Libson before you’ve eaten the freshly grilled sardines with boiled potatoes, peppers and tomato
Vinho verde Effervescent young wine from the Douro Valley region it and then gorge ourselves on even more mountains of shellfish, as is only polite. Huge platters of rice follow (this is the true Lisbon, complete with bad tablecloths, grumpy waiters, low prices and incredible food).
In a moment of comedic coincidence, in walks Luís Godinho, the salt cod seller I met when I first arrived in Lisbon.
He’s greeted with embraces in a scene straight out of The Godfather. It turns out his shop supplies this restaurant, too. It may be big names like Avillez on every Lisbonite’s lips but whether they know it or not, it’s Luís’s food that’s in their shops, restaurants and mouths.
Lisbon’s food scene is having a moment. Its chefs are of the moment, however, many of their suppliers and cooks are as old as the traditions that they proudly uphold. If the city can retain this balance, it might be able to resist ‘the change’ after all.