HELSINKIFinland
The Finnish summer is short and the spring is even shorter, typically lasting just eight precious weeks. A blanket of snow deadens southern Finland from December to April, so it makes sense that the sight of the first butter yellow coltsfoot flowers is enough to make locals ditch their trademark reserve and dive head-first into picnics, street parties and festivals. Helsinki is particularly suited to the warmer months. Surrounded by the Baltic on three sides, it has 300 islands, including historic Suomenlinna and Lammassaari, with its bird-watching tower from which you can catch migratory flocks return for spring. In May, you’ll find hardy Finns emerging from saunas on to beaches such as Hietaranta for daring dips in the Baltic. Local adage says that winter is not truly over until the swallows return to the city, so head to Keskuspuisto Park and see if it’s true. This nature reserve is covered in pine forests crisscrossed with hiking trails. Keep your eyes peeled for rabbits, whose coats turn from white to brown as the snow melts, while chefs from local restaurants will be making the most of the wild herbs that scent the air.
WHAT TO DO
Lovely Helsinki Festival between 18-21 May transforms the CBD with cheerful flower displays and discounts at more than 200 shops and restaurants. lovelyhelsinki.com
May Day or Vappu is a spring bank holiday in Finland. Join the thousands of people who descend on the Market Square for evening drinks on 30 April, then head to Ullanlinna Hill for a herring and champagne picnic the next day.
World Village Festival from 27-28 May sees artists from around the world descend on Kaisaniemi Park and Railway Square to celebrate creativity and tolerance. maailmakylassa. fi
WHERE TO MEET AND EAT
Chef & Sommelier is an organic fine-diner tucked away in residential Ullanlinna. It’s particularly exciting in May when chef Sasu Laukkonen begins foraging again. Expect orpine, nettle and bitter cress. chefetsommelier.fi
Restaurant Saari is a seafood gem on tiny Sirpalesaari Island, a short boat hop from Merisatama pier. Expect blue and white checked tablecloths, arctic char and wild herb salads. It reopens for the season on 1 May. ravintolasaari.fi
Teurastamo (The Abattoir) is Helsinki’s version of New York’s meat-packing district. From May it buzzes with food trucks and a communal barbecue pit. There’s a beach and lawn area, as well as hammocks made for lazy afternoons. teurastamo.com