Three for modern Italian

L’Anima

The City

In Italian, L’anima means ‘soul’. Fitting, considering there’s plenty in the food and service at this contemporary restaurant in Bishopsgate. Expect starched-tablecloth dining in an airy glass room as waiters sashay, wishing guests a buona sera. Dishes are pretty, with subtle flavour combinations. Tuna tartare is served with a delicate smear of avocado purée, three dots of mango purée and a purple pansy. Pasta takes tradition to new heights; our favourite is the red beetroot tortelli filled with smoked burrata and ricotta, and finished with a flourish of aged balsamic vinegar at the table. LF. lanima.co.uk

Luca

Farringdon

This sophisticated spot has all the makings of a modern classic. While its sister restaurant The Clove Club serves Michelin-starred plates in a pared-back setting, Luca’s glamour contrasts with its forthright food. The term ‘Britalian’ is a little laboured, but the focus on quality British ingredients through an Italian lens really works. Morecambe Bay shrimp in mace butter proves a natural companion to spaghetti, and salted gooseberries with olives is a fine way to start. The parmesan fries are light as churros, but the standout dish is canneloni bulging with decadent calf’s head ragu. IL. luca.restaurant

Palatino

Clerkenwell

Named after one of Rome’s seven hills, Stevie Parle’s fifth restaurant is authentic, without being shackled by tradition. Apart from mustard yellow sofas the interiors are understated, allowing the open kitchen to take centre stage. A grill belches clouds of delicious-smelling smoke up to the Tube map of pipes on the ceiling, while a specialised oven produces extraordinary gnocchi. The palm-sized parcels are lightly crisped on the outside and shiny with brown butter. Fried sage leaves are served alongside honey vinegar, which cuts through the delicate egg white batter beautifully. IL. palatino.london