Restau­rants

This month, we revel in fine French din­ing in Hol­born, try three great bar­be­cue joints, jet off to Mu­nich for high-end Nikkei cui­sine, and re­turn to a clas­sic Lon­don iza­kaya

Food and Travel (UK) - - Tried & Tasted -

Otto’s Hol­born

There are some restau­rants that just feel right. The fur­ni­ture might not match, the art might be ‘eclec­tic’, but the at­mos­phere, am­bi­ence and – most im­por­tantly – the food are all spot on. Otto’s on Gray’s Inn Road in is one such gem. Ev­ery­thing about the place is su­perb and with its epony­mous pro­pri­etor’s charisma, charm and ex­ten­sive food and wine knowl­edge, has shot right to the top of our favourite spots in Lon­don. It’s a restau­rant with a con­cept, but a ‘con­cept restau­rant’ it isn’t. It owns some of the world’s only sur­viv­ing pres­soirs for lob­ster and duck: gothic-style tor­ture im­ple­ments that ap­ply pres­sure to car­casses to ex­tract ev­ery last drop of flavour to cre­ate a sauce so deep with flavour it verges on a re­li­gious ex­pe­ri­ence. The rest of the menu shows French clas­sics per­fectly ex­e­cuted. Beef tartare is chopped and mixed in front of you, foie gras has the faintest kiss of char, and bread­brumbed sweet­breads are treated with the re­spect they de­serve. As good as these are, they play a sup­port­ing cast to blush­ing roast duck and su­per-sweet lob­ster. It’s a restau­rant that de­serves your cus­tom. MS. 020 7713 0107, ot­tos-restau­rant.com

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