WINDS OF CHANGE

Now’s the time to visit untamed Patagonia; the wind and rains of winter have lulled and the crowds are yet to descend. Visit conservationist Kris Tompkins’s private 810sq km expanse, which opens on 1 October. She’s bought up swathes of land in the southern Aysén region since 2000 and is set to gift it to the government as part of the new Patagonia National Park. Stay on site at the Lodge and try to spot the elu sive pampa s cats. patagoniapark.org