Alain Du­casse au Plaza Athénée

Food and Travel (UK) - - Tried & Tasted -

The great mas­ter Alain Du­casse’s land­mark restau­rant was a bas­tion of French tra­di­tion. How­ever in 2014, the three Miche­lin-starred chef rein­vented it to fo­cus on nat­u­ral fine din­ing, pri­ori­tis­ing veg­eta­bles, fish and ce­re­als, as well as sus­tain­abil­ity. His in­no­va­tion has paid off; it was named num­ber 13 on The World’s 50 Best Restau­rants list this year.

The in­te­ri­ors are world-class. Walls are as white as pearl onions, oys­ter-like shells en­close bench seats and Swarovski crys­tal chan­de­liers sparkle like fish scales. Du­casse’s rai­son d’être is to dis­til and pre­serve the very essence of each in­gre­di­ent and for the most part he suc­ceeds. Lan­goustines laden with caviar are served with a seafood re­duc­tion that tastes like the very soul of the ocean. Veg­eta­bles grown in the Palace of Ver­sailles gar­dens are so per­fectly cooked it seems an aberration to pour the ac­com­pa­ny­ing rasp­berry condi­ment over them. The flavour in­ten­sity is phe­nom­e­nal, but is best sur­mised by a sear­ingly sharp lemon sor­bet matched with tar­ragon jus. EB. 00 33 158 002 343, alain­d­u­casse-plazaa­the­

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