Gourmet bolt­hole

THE MAR­QUIS, SUF­FOLK

Food and Travel (UK) - - Tried & Tasted -

Perch­ing above the pretty Brett Val­ley in Up­per Lay­ham, around 30 min­utes from Ip­swich, The Mar­quis makes a re­fresh­ing change to the ‘ye-olde’ style coun­try inns and choco­late-box build­ings that char­ac­terise the county. The build­ing dates back to the 17th cen­tury and its ten lux­ury rooms have the lilt of his­tory, with­out feel­ing twee. Orig­i­nal beams and fire­places meet her­itage tones and fine tex­tiles – a nod to the re­gion’s past – while the view of the val­ley is quite some­thing to awake to.

In the din­ing room, chefs Tom Bushell and Sam Clover put sea­sonal, lo­cal in­gre­di­ents at the heart of their menu. Mod­ern Bri­tish is the deal here and the only Suf­folk-pink you’ll find will be the blush of their per­fectly cooked lamb chops. Else­where, guinea fowl is poached and served with pick­led girolles; goat’s cheese tortellini comes with sor­rel and beet­root soup and a Josper grill does an equally fine job with a Stow­mar­ket chicken breast as it does a tom­a­hawk steak. Light straw­berry con­sommé with fro­mage frais sobert and bor­age flow­ers is our pick when it comes to puds – the mod­ern pre­sen­ta­tion errs on the right side of re­strained: colour­ful, at­trac­tive but not over­done. Panoramic win­dows, muted tones and an open kitchen pro­vide the ideal back­drop. BG. Dou­bles from £165. 01473 377 977, the­mar­quis­suf­folk.co.uk

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