WHERE TO EAT

Belvedere dal 1933 Chef Alain Rosica cooks with a lightness of touch not often associated with classic Roman dishes: think courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta and pecorino wrapped in wafer-thin slices of smoky bacon. A local menu with a modern twist. From £25. 29 Via Regina Margherita, Frascati, 00 39 06 941 9004, belvedere1933.com

Greed Avidi di Gelato Winner of the Gelaterie d’Italia 2017 (the best Italian gastronomic ice cream award), lists of seasonal fruits and flavours are scribbled on the wall and perennial favourites, such as lemon, pistachio and raspberry (owner Dario Rossi grows them in his garden), sit alongside rosemary and olive oil and a tart butter and jam – the key, I’m told, is the Guernsey milk. Scoops from £1.15. 28 Via Cernaia, Frascati, 00 39 347 623 6679, avididigelato.it

Le Petit Bistrot The wood-fired pizza oven takes centre stage at this locals’ favourite. Owner Massimiliano Priori is at the helm, sending out crisp Romano and chewy Napolese-style pizzas, topped with the finest local ingredients. From £15. 13 Via Ettore Gabrielli, Velletri, 00 39 36 70 43 88, velletribistrot.it

Monte Due Torri Follow the stairs of this medieval building, which was originally an outpost of the castle built here to control the road to Anzio, and discover this intimate fine-dining restaurant. Dishes from Josè Amici are refined and beautifully presented, from a perfect plate of cacio e pepe pasta with mint picked in the mountains, to a decadent chocolate sphere within which is enveloped a silky smooth mousse. From £38. 77 Via Monte Giove, Genzano di Roma, 00 39 06 93 63 276, monteduetorri.it