WORD ON THE VINE Gewürztraminer

Rich and fruity, it takes strong flavours to stand up to the powerful Alsace favourite

THE GRAPE

The origins of Gewürztraminer go back to around 1000AD, when the traminer grape was cultivated in the Italian Tyrol. The distinctively pink skin helps to give the wine an almost peachy glow and while the majority of Gewürztraminer wines are white, rosés and reds are also made from the same grape family.

THE TASTE

Lychee is often the giveaway note, along with rose petals (or even Turkish delight). Other regulars are grapefruit, apricot and pineapple – and spice such as ginger, depending on the origin. Although aromas can be complex, it’s often off-dry or semi-sweet.

THE PAIRINGS

Most fish dishes can’t handle its punch and spice, but it works well with potent cheeses such as Munster from Alsace, and richer goat’s cheese or strong cheddar, aided by the slight acidity to cut through the fattiness. Given ‘gewurz’ means ‘spice’, it works with medium-spiced curries (either Thai, Sichuan or Indian), rich meats such as duck and goose, or spiced sausages and bacon.

THE VINES

Vineyards in the cooler climates of the Alsace region, on the border of France and Germany, are where it feels at home, but it’s also made its way around the Alps taking in the likes of northern Italy, Romania, Croatia and Slovenia, and further afield in New Zealand, Australia, Chile and North America, including California.

THE BOTTLES

Jan Konetzki, director of wine at the Four Seasons Hotel and Mei Ume, picks four of his favourites

2019 GEWURZTRAMINER TRADITION, CAVE DE TURCKHEIM,

ALSACE, FRANCE, £14.99, tauruswines.co.uk

Alsace grows some of the finest gewurz in the world but also some of the best-value quaffers. This co-operative wine by 240 growers serves up floral, fresh flavours of rose petal and faint hints of honeyed lemon.

2017 TRAMINER BEERENAUSLESE, FEILER ARTINGER,

BURGENLAND, AUSTRIA, £14.99, waitrose.com

If you’ve ever dreamed of finding a great wine bargain in the supermarket, here it is. A rare sweet wine from dried traminer grapes with the smell of Turkish delight that is still lively and complex.

2019 GEWÜRZTRAMINER, FRANZ HAAS, ALTO-ADIGE, ITALY,

£26.99, valvonacrolla.co.uk

This northern Italian bottle carries a distinctively fragrant bouquet of roses, spicy nutmeg and tropical lychee. A big wine with plenty of freshness and a subtle, positively bitter finish.

AND IF YOU WANT TO SPLASH OUT… 2020 EMMERAM, GUT OGGAU, BURGENLAND, AUSTRIA,

£54, dynamicvines.com

Dry, full bodied with a little edge of firmness and a floral and sappy nose. It’s unfiltered with no added sulphur, so decant an hour before drinking.