SHIP to SHORE
OCEANIAʼS GUIDE TO MATERA
Oceania Cruisesʼ resident gourmet traveller, Bernie Carter (SVP and MD, EMEA) shares his top picks for where to eat in western Basilicata
Balancing on the edge of a ravine in the instep of the Italian boot, Matera is a city of ancient history. An underground web of Paleolithic-era cave dwellings has secured its Unesco credentials, and what was once a long-forgotten corner of the Basilicata region has since been named the European Capital of Culture, with its stunning limestone monasteries making their debut in several blockbusters and its cuisine becoming emblematic of the region. Sixteen Oceania Cruises routes dock at Bari, just under an hour away, and you won’t want to miss it.
With each visit, I’m slowly sampling my way through Matera’s host of wines – each variety is so full of flavour. But the pizza rustica pies and pasta dishes are just as impressive; it’s said that pasta originated in southern Italy, and Matera might just be the proof. Traditionally made with durum wheat and no egg, pasta here is lighter in texture and taste – ribbon-style lagana is a favourite among locals, although restaurant La Nicchia nel Sasso serves a fantastic pasta stuffed with lamb, aubergine and mozzarella too. Simple yet rich traditional cuisine is best enjoyed on the terrace with views of the Old Town – be sure to try their fresh bruschetta, slow-cooked beef cheeks and seafood platters.
For a quick lunch, head to pizza and puccia (pizza-dough sandwich) specialist Il Rusticone. I like to pair the Lucana pizza – featuring sausage, caciocavallo cheese and dried peppers – with a local craft beer before paying a visit to 16th-century Tramontano Castle. Nearby, L’Antica Credenza serves incredible cold cuts and cheeseboards among decor that pays tribute to the Sassi di Matera caves, a short walk away.
On your way back to the train station, stop by social hub Piazza Ascanio Persio and pick a few gourmet souvenirs at the Central Market: focaccia, ricotta, a selection of local fruit and a bottle of Matero Moro DOC will surely hit the spot. oceaniacruises.com