Garden Answers (UK)

Pruning made easy: amelanchie­r

Remove rubbing and congested stems of this springflow­ering shrub. Our expert Jon Brockleban­k shows how

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Remove rubbing and congested stems of this spring-flowering shrub

AMATURE amelanchie­r is a dazzling sight in spring, its stems smothered with white blossom that emerges just as leaves are beginning to unfurl. The plant’s habit is bushy, with strong new shoots emerging from soil level. The aim of pruning is to keep the plant looking bushy but not too congested in the centre. We’re intending to encourage strong new shoots from the ground each year, without the overproduc­tion of suckers. These particular plants are about 10 years old now – they’re former show garden shrubs that Adam Frost brought back from RHS Chelsea Flower Show to Barnsdale, when he worked here.

We prune our amelanchie­rs in November when the plants are dormant. As soon as the leaves have fallen in autumn, it’s easier to assess the plant’s overall shape and spot any crossing or rubbing stems. It’s OK to remove larger branches at this time; you can also prune them in spring after flowering, when it’s best to remove just the smaller, more twiggy stems.

Over time, crossing stems rub against each other, removing the bark and inviting in disease and pests. Generally speaking, it’s best to remove the oldest stem in favour of a younger, more vigorous or better-positioned one.

Cut back the old stem to a healthy outward-facing bud or right to ground level. This promotes new growth away from the centre of the plant, creating more of an open, vase shape. Removing these overcrowde­d and crossing stems encourages new shoots to form and gives them space to grow.

While you’re pruning, also remove any thin, weak shoots and wonky ones that are growing back on themselves, which spoil the overall appearance of the plant and make it look tangled. Cut back clean to one of the main stems, without leaving snags of bark – sharp secateurs will help you make cleaner cuts. ✿

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