PLANT YOUR BORDER
Before planting, fork over the site, breaking up compacted ground, removing weeds and adding a generous layer of well-rotted compost. Site the expensive slow-growing spruce and fir carefully to avoid planting them too close together. Give them a sunny site where they’re not overshadowed by neighbouring plants, on ground that doesn’t become waterlogged in winter or dry out in summer, and they’ll bring many years of pleasure.
Establish the conifers
It’s best to plant the abies and picea in autumn or spring, into a moist but reasonably well-drained soil. Both are slow-growing plants – expect about 20cm (8in) a year – so will take time to add weight to the border. Money will buy you bigger specimens but remember smaller conifers tend to establish better than larger plants. Soak the container before planting and be extra vigilant over the first summer to water during dry spells; they really don’t like to dry out. In future years apply a general purpose fertiliser before mulching in late winter. Make sure neighbouring plants don’t overshadow the lower branches and you’ll retain an attractive shape right down to the ground.
Lay out the panicum and hylotelephium
The switch grass and hylotelephium may be deciduous but their dried winter structure is crucial to this planting. Make sure they both have room to spread into generous clumps without getting in the way of their planting partners. Cut back the old stems on both plants down to ground level in late winter (February to early March).
The panicum tends to be slow into growth. Wait until April or May, when they’re showing strong signs of life, before dividing established plants.
Bulking up quickly, the hylotelephium can be lifted and split in autumn or spring, replanting the clump’s vigorous outer sections.
Finish with the low-level plants
The trio of fescue, nandina and erica create glamorous evergreen groundcover for this border. The silvery, needle-like leaves of festuca echo the blue of the conifers behind and, while it isn’t long-lived, new plants are easy to establish from seed. Or, lift, divide and replant the more vigorous outer sections when plants begin to die out from the centre. Plant the fescue in spring, adding extra grit to planting holes if you’re on heavier soil. Smarten up plants after winter by raking through the foliage to tease out tatty, dead leaves. The nandina can be planted in autumn or late spring, although on heavier ground a spring planting is safer. Plants appreciate shelter in the colder parts of the country, especially from strong winds.
They’re hardy to around -10C (14F), after which plants lose leaves, but usually recover if the base has been given a protective mulch. Young plants are more vulnerable to cold than older specimens. You can propagate nandina by taking semi-ripe cuttings in late summer, preferably with bottom heat, and overwintering the young plants in a coldframe or greenhouse. Finally add the erica ‘Foxhollow’. It’s happiest on slightly acidic to neutral soil but has the advantage of tolerating lime too. You’ll get the brightest foliage colour in full sun but don’t let plants dry out in their first summer. Trim plants lightly immediately after flowering to prevent them becoming leggy but beware cutting back too hard because they won’t regenerate from old wood. Propagate by taking semi-ripe cuttings in late summer. ✿