Crème du Barry (light)

This delicious, lighter, gluten-free, adaptation of the cauliflower soup adored by Madame du Barry, mistress of Louis XV, is based around potatoes and cream instead of the classic Gruyère-enriched mornay sauce.

Steaming the cauli at the end ensures it’s not overcooked. If you can fit a colander and lid over the soup saucepan while the other vegetables finish cooking, so much the better.

Serves 4 INGREDIENTS

1 medium onion, diced

1-2 sticks celery, de-strung and finely sliced, plus leaves

2 fat leeks, white part only, trimmed, sliced vertically, cleaned and finely sliced

2 tablespoons oil

1 large potato (around 300g/10½oz) peeled and diced

1 medium head of cauliflower, cut into small florets 1-litre (1¾ pints) hot veg stock

1 bay leaf Plenty of ground white and cayenne pepper Good grating of nutmeg 4 tablespoons double cream Chives to garnish

METHOD

l Soften onion, celery (reserving leaves) and leek in a large, heavy-bo omed pan. Stir in potatoes and cook for 5 minutes more.

l Pour over stock, add bay leaf and finely chopped celery leaves and simmer until vegetables are almost tender. Steam cauliflower for 4-5 minutes or until tender. Add to soup and season generously.

lTransfer to blender or food processor (or use stick blender) and blend until smooth. Add cream and reheat in washed pan until piping hot but avoid boiling. Adjust seasoning, if necessary. Serve in warmed bowls, garnished with chives.