Kitchen Gardener Rob Smith is picking, planting and sowing more produce
Jerusalem artichokes can be harvested and celeriac seed sown
For those of you who’ve grown green manures over the winter months, it’s time to start digging them in on warmer days when the soil's workable by chopping the plants off at soil level with a sharp spade and then trying to chop the foliage up as much as possible; by doing this it’ll allow the plant material to decompose quicker in the soil and improve its structure.
If the soil's workable it’s also a good idea to harvest any remaining Jerusalem artichokes from your beds. These tasty tubers are absolutely fine to leave in the soil until needed, but at this time of year it's best to remove them all and either make into soups and freeze, or use them up fresh. The reasoning to this is because the tubers will soon start to grow, making them unusable to eat and creating a ‘thicket’ of artichokes if left uncared for; not ideal as the tubers produced will be too cramped and small when you harvest them. When removing the tubers, try and reserve a few to grow again this year, then you don’t have to buy new ones. I reserve the largest for the kitchen and save three or four fat specimens that will fit into 5L terracotta pots comfortably; after all, you don't want the top of the artichoke tuber sticking out of the pot. When planting, there’s no set way to put the tuber in the pot; as long as the end that's connected to the stem of the plant is facing slightly upwards it doesn't matter. Once potted up, I leave them in the cold greenhouse to settle in and put their roots down; after all they’re perennial if given protection, so they should cope with the UK weather unless there’s a harsh cold snap, then they may need a double layer of fleece thrown over the top of them. Leave the plants in the pots until after the last frost, then plant them out – this gives them a head start and helps produce large tubers later in autumn.
If, like me, you’re a fan of celeriac, you can sow a few seeds now in biodegradable pots in a cold frame or greenhouse, this allows you to plant out without disturbing the
roots. I find that those started off this way are more prone to bolting later in the year, but this is fine with me as I use them as they become ready to harvest, hence they’re the first ones to be used up. Whereas seeds started in a propagator will give plants that last a little longer in the ground, well into the new year if protected with a thick layer of leaves. I sow a couple of seeds per small pot, then thin to the strongest seedling before planting out. Remember, the leaves of celeriac can be used sparingly in soups and salads to give a distinctive ‘celery’ flavour.
While we're talking about sowing, don’t forget you can start a few peas and broad beans off in either root trainers (to give depth) or in large terracotta seed pans, just protect the trays with a lid or wire netting, otherwise the mice will dig them up! Once
the plants are 5cm (2in) they’ll be fine to uncover and grow on.