Get perfect hanging baskets – container expert Mark Lane reveals how
The creative container Be as creative as you like with wonderful displays to suit all spots in the garden
Ihave a love-hate relationship with hanging baskets. I love the plants and like the idea of flowers and foliage cascading over the edges, but I invariably forget or don’t have time to take them down in strong winds or remember to water and feed them regularly. But I’m determined this year to change my ways and introduce some. I also like the idea of a succulent hanging ball and the wonderful art of kokedama.
Siting your basket
Like any container, you need to site hanging baskets based on plant selection. If you want a woodland-style hanging basket then this will probably do be er in a partial shade area, whereas nearly all bedding plants require sun. Ideally you want to avoid windy locations or a wind tunnel, which can be created between houses. You need a strong hook, fixed securely to the wall, and try and avoid the rain shadow of the house.
Top tips for displays
Once you know where you’re going to put your hanging baskets there are some simple steps to creating the perfect containerised displays. Before going to the garden centre and coming away with way too many or not the right plants or materials, make some notes and a shopping list. Next, think about the type of hanging basket you want. Will it be metal-framed with a liner or plastic with removable slots? Perhaps you like a natural willow basket, a half basket or a full circular basket, a self-watering basket or one with a water reservoir.
For best results you want the basket to hang at eye level or just below so you can enjoy the flowers. However, if you intend to have lots of cascading plants, you might want it higher up so you look up at it – your very own Hanging Gardens of Babylon!
Remember that a hanging basket is still container gardening. It should comprise a basket, liner, compost, waterretentive granules, plants and a slow-release fertiliser. When it comes to watering, try fixing a hi-lo mechanism, which means you can pull to lower and push to lift it back to its prime position. Choosing a basket with a self-watering reservoir as well will mean you’re not out there morning and evening or worrying about it if you go away during summer.
For lining the basket there are several options. Traditionally sphagnum moss was used, but you can now buy ready-made liners that sit inside and all you do is fill the basket, cut some holes to push some plants through, clip it in and you’re done. Alternatively, cut up a compost bag with the black inside facing outwards – even an old woollen jumper works as well as moss. You could even cut up capillary ma ing. Whatever you decide, place a pot saucer in the bo om to stop water running straight through it.
There are hanging basket composts on the market, but I’d use a good peat-free multi-purpose one. Mix in water-retentive granules, which will swell up, and finally add a slow-release fertiliser. Make up this mix before you start, and not as you go.
Perfect plants
Reliable plants such as fuchsia, pelargonium, petunia, surfinia, calibrachoa and trailing plants such as ivy, lobelia, bacopa, dichondra and helichrysum work best. Herbs also make excellent specimens in hanging baskets.
For a modern twist, plant up succulents such as echeveria, dischidia and sedum. And why not add a climber or two to grow up the chains, if it’s a static display? The aim is to create a large ball of colour, texture and scent; the more you can fit in, the be er the display. Fill your basket, leaving about 2.5cm (1in) from the top of the basket.
Hanging baskets, like many containers, can dry out quickly so water at least once a day, either early morning or late evening. Finally, six weeks after planting start a weekly liquid feed, such as tomato or seaweed feed, and remove dead flowers regularly to prolong blooming.