Shape up roses

Gardeners' World - - Autumn Pruning Guide -

Roses of­ten con­tinue flow­er­ing over a long pe­riod, some into au­tumn and it can be hard to work out whether they’ve fi­nally stopped. All roses ben­e­fit from dead­head­ing but leave un­touched those grown for their dec­o­ra­tive hips. Th­ese should be mak­ing a good dis­play now and should only have bro­ken shoots re­moved. The main rose-prun­ing sea­son is in late win­ter, but you can make use­ful cuts in au­tumn. Some roses are par­tic­u­larly sus­cep­ti­ble to win­drock (see right). Tall or newly planted ones will need around a third of their over­all height cut back now if they are grow­ing in a vul­ner­a­ble po­si­tion. Stan­dard roses are par­tic­u­larly likely to be dam­aged by wind, so lightly trim all the growth on their top-heavy crowns. Ram­blers are of­ten left un­pruned, but late sum­mer is the best time to trim them. If it hasn’t al­ready been done, shorten the flow­ered sideshoots and cut un­pro­duc­tive frame­work branches at the base. How­ever, the later they are pruned, the more likely you are to lose next year’s flow­ers. Thor­oughly dead­head and tidy up late­flow­er­ing climbers, and en­sure they are tied into their sup­ports.

What to cut Old flow­ers and any growth that is likely to break in strong winds.

Where to cut Prune to just above a healthy, out­ward-fac­ing bud, which will shoot next year.

When to cut Be­fore au­tumn gales start, but af­ter flow­er­ing has ended.

Tie in climbers now, for a good dis­play next year

Dam­aged stems like this can be re­moved at any time

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