BERRIES: A GLOBAL HISTORY by Heather Arndt Anderson

Reaktion Books, £10.99 ISBN 978-1780238951

A collection of anecdotes, folk tales and recipes about the influence of berries on social rituals and traditions from around the world.

I have spent many warm, autumn afternoons, picking plump blackberries from field hedgerows. Arms scratched from stubborn brambles and fingers stained black from the fruit. The contents of the Tupperware bowl, almost as full as my belly, would be mixed with apples and topped with a crumble of oats, nuts and sugar.

Berries, documents such traditions, along with intriguing botany, berrylore, and the berry’s place in international medicinal and culinary history. It’s the latest title from the Edible series by Reaktion Books. Author Heather Arndt Anderson, food writer, culinary historian and botanist covers the huge topic amazingly well, keeping the discussion engaging and entertaining throughout.

In the chapter on dishes and drinks, I discovered the origin of the Frisbee. According to Anderson, The Frisbee Pie Company in Connecticut sold its berry pies in tin plates. These plates became the original prototype for the popular game, when some forward-thinking person realised there was fun to be had flying the tins back and forth through the air.

There are darker tales too. In 17th-century Italy, the poisoner Giulia Tofana distributed Atropa belladonna berries to hundreds of women, particularly those in lower classes who, stuck in bad marriages, wanted rid of their abusive husbands. Her potent solution, Aqua Tofana, is said to have killed more than 600 men.

These stories, as well as the folk tales and mythology make for a fascinating read, especially the traditions from other countries and the influence berries have had on their culture. There’s also a selection of historical and contemporary recipes at the back of the book. I have a new appreciation for these jewel-like fruits.