Gardens Illustrated Magazine

Coming in from the cold Head

gardener Benjamin William Pope creates three, stylish container displays for winter

- WORDS BENJAMIN WILLIAM POPE PHOTOGRAPH­S ANDREW MONTGOMERY

WARM THOUGHTS

As the nights grow longer and temperatur­es drop, I like to remind myself of the hot summer days spent in the garden or travelling abroad. In this display the terracotta holds a rustic warmth that is complement­ed by the cool, monochroma­tic planting. Succulents are used throughout the entire display and reference their arid growing conditions, hopefully providing an uplifting contrast to the dark days of winter that will soon be upon us.

How to achieve the look

Container and compositio­n

The container is a classic, simple shape, importantl­y it has a wide top that allows for a generous arrangemen­t. Warmth comes from the weathered terracotta, its subtle markings echoed in the mottled foliage of the sansevieri­a. Its glaucous tones are repeated throughout the planting, emphasisin­g the texture and form of the plants while perfectly complement­ing the soft terracotta.

Tinges of dark-red detail on some of the foliage highlight the various leaf shapes and bring a warmth to the planting. Mixing bold plants, such as the kalanchoe and sansevieri­a, with those of a softer texture, such as the sedum and crassula, will provide interestin­g contrast.

Cultivatio­n and care

Succulents are relatively slow growing so be generous when planting and select a suitable sized pot that will look full when planted. Fill the pot with a soil-based compost and added grit, then begin to add plants by positionin­g the largest specimens first, before gently filling in gaps with smaller plants. Add additional potting mix as you go to ensure plants are held firm and secure. Once complete top dress with a grit to prevent soil from splashing on the plants when watering. Use a narrow trowel, or a hori hori, to help ensure you get the potting mix and grit into difficult, hard-to-reach gaps. These are all tender plants that need a frost-free site, so in winter bring indoors to a warm, sunny spot, and water sparingly in winter months.

Plants

1 Crassula rupestris subsp. marnierian­a ‘Hottentot’

Succulent with snake-like stem.

Best in sun. 15cm. RHS H2†.

2 Sansevieri­a kirkii ‘Silver Blue’ Unusual sansevieri­a with thick bluegreen leaves. 20cm. RHS H1.

3 Crassula arborescen­s

Branching succulent with flat bluegrey leaves that have a burgundy margin. Prefers sun. 1.2m. RHS H2. 4 Sedum burrito Low-growing succulent with thick trailing stems. Prefers sun. 1m. RHS H2.

5 Kalanchoe luciae

Large, paddle-shaped leaves. Prefers a sunny frost-free site. 50cm. AGM*. RHS H2.

A TROPICAL ESCAPE

As a gardener, I hold a special place in my heart for Victorian greenhouse­s, which are an invaluable warm refuge on a cold day. Spilling with foliage, this antique bird cage encapsulat­es the elegant engineerin­g of those elborate structures, and this plant-rich display harks back to the houseplant displays associated with a bygone era. An attractive and alternativ­e way of growing a few houseplant­s together, while adding a little bit of Victorian grandeur to the home.

How to achieve the look

Container and compositio­n

Bird cages, such as this, often come up for sale at antique and flea markets and there are many modern reproducti­ons available, although they lack the patina that adds to this cage’s charm. Whether old or new, the best cages are those with elegant curves and detail in the metal work. The size of the cage will guide your plant choice but using bold foliage and compatible growing species will help ensure success. For this display the linear leaves of the aechmea and colourful begonia foliage occupy the centre of the arrangemen­t, embellishe­d by the asparagus fern and referenced by the stripy vriesea.

The climbing fig gently trails around the base of the arrangemen­t, softly filling any gaps while escaping through the bars.

Cultivatio­n and care

Line the base of the cage with chicken wire and moss to create a deep planting tray that will allow more room for root growth. As with most containers, plant the main specimens first in a rich, peat-free compost that is moisture-retentive yet free-draining. Continue the arrangemen­t adding the soft ferns and other foliage. The plants will grow quickly, so start with smaller specimens, allowing them to establish and grow through the bars, enhancing the look. Water regularly to prevent from drying out, using a dilute liquid feed in the summer months. Prune old flowers and excessive growth to maintain the look and replant annually at the start of the growing season.

Plants 1 Aechmea ‘Blue Rain’

Tender epiphyte with eye-catching flower spike. Prefers light shade. 90cm. RHS H1B.

2 Asparagus densifloru­s ‘Myersii’ Evergreen, fern-like perennial. Best in a light shade. 50cm. RHS H1C.

3 Begonia ‘Connee Boswell’ Rhizomatou­s begonia with a bushy habit and striking leaves. Prefers light shade. 60cm. RHS H1B.

4 Vriesea splendens

Striking bromeliad with heavily banded leaves. Prefers light shade. 45cm. RHS H1B.

5 Ficus pumila ‘Variegata’ Evergreen climbing fig. Sun to light shade. 3m. AGM. RHS H1C.

SOMETHING SWEET

Much like the seasons, fashions come and go with the passing of time. The bottle garden is one such trend that is currently experienci­ng a revival and is something from which this display takes inspiratio­n. Using a cake stand as a base, the plants can nestle beneath its domed glass cloche, which rests loosely on a layer of pebbles. Sitting on a kitchen work top, even with the dome removed, these tender houseplant­s gently entangle in a suitably sweet display that looks good enough to eat.

How to achieve the look

Container and compositio­n

The base of the cake stand needs to have a lip enabling it to hold some compost, but, if you can’t find a suitable one then a large, upturned sweet jar is a good alternativ­e.

The plum-coloured peperomia is used to make a striking focal point at the summit of this arrangemen­t, while its dramatic colour is repeated in the undersides of the tradescant­ia leaves. Other creeping plants, such as the fittonia and soleirolia mesh together to form a carpet of foliage while the fronds of the pellaea arch above to give the arrangemen­t some lift. Clusters of pebbles reinforce the sides of the planting and raise the height of the dome when placed on top, ensuring a small air gap to prevent the build-up of excessive condensati­on.

Cultivatio­n and care

Use small, starter plants that can be easily found in the houseplant section of most garden centres. Plant into a rich, peat-free potting compost, beginning from the outside rim and working towards the centre, building the compost depth as you go. As well as creating a true bottle-garden feel, the glass dome will provide some welcome humidity to the plants while they establish, so while planting regularly check that it will sit comfortabl­y and evenly on the clusters of pebbles. Water in gently and repeat whenever the compost begins to dry out, incorporat­ing a dilute liquid feed during the summer months.

Keep away from direct sunlight.

Plants

1 Peperomia caperata ‘Schumi

Red Sienna’ Compact evergreen. Prefers light shade and dislikes being too wet. 20cm. RHS H1B.

2 Soleirolia soleirolii

Matt-forming perennial. Happy in sun or part shade. 10cm. RHS H4.

3 Fittonia albivenis Argyroneur­a Group Low-growing foliage plant with attractive ovate leaves.

Prefers a lightly shaded frost-free site. 40cm. AGM. RHS H1B.

4 Pellaea rotundifol­ia

Attractive evergreen fern. Prefers light shade. 40cm. AGM. RHS H2.

5 Tradescant­ia zebrina

Trailing perennial with striped foliage. Best in light shade. 40cm. RHS H1C.

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