Plant profile: edible hedgerow
Planting an edible hedge provides f lavours you can’t buy in the shops and rich pickings for the larder
Alys Fowler suggests the best shrubs and trees to create hedgerows for every garden
Imagine a boundary that is rich in wild flavours, alive with spring blossom, peppered with autumn colour and a feast for foraging from fat hips to intense berries and wild-tasting apples. A good edible hedge provides flavours you truly can’t buy in the shops and offers a wealth of preserving opportunities.
Your choice of what to include will inevitably be limited by the size and conditions of your garden. Urban and smaller gardens need plants that will thrive from clipping but still fruit well. Rosa rugosa, Japanese quince, juneberry and sea buckthorn are all tolerant of a wide range of conditions and can be clipped to suit the size of the garden. But if your garden can accommodate a wilder, country hedge then larger species, such as elderberries, crab apples, pears and damsons, which can grow into substantial boundaries could be an option.
With many of the best edible hedging choices you have the option to choose the common or the cultivated. You may be lucky enough for a bird to deposit a bramble, or you could choose a cultivar with an interesting leaf or a particular flavour. Rubus fruticosus ‘Ashton Cross’ is a wild-selected bramble with wiry stems and vast numbers of small to medium berries suited to freezing and preserving. R. fruticosus ‘Oregon Thornless’, as its name suggests, has smooth stems and is semi-vigorous with deeply cut attractive leaves. One of its parents is the cut-leaved blackberry, Rubus laciniatus, which I think has one of the finest flavours going, if you don’t mind its truly beastly thorns and vigorous habitat. Not one for a small hedge, but if you have space to let it ramble, it’s a handsome thing.
For a splash of colour, you could add an elderberry. Cultivars, such as Sambucus nigra f. porphyrophylla ‘Gerda’, with its pink flowers, S. nigra f. porphyrophylla ‘Eva’ with its lacy leaves, or golden elder, S. nigra ‘Aurea’, which has yellow-green leaves, all fit the bill. But an elderberry is not a subject for a tidy hedge; in the middle of a hedge, it tends to out compete its neighbours. Elderberries do best either on the end of the hedge line or allowed to grow as a tree within the hedge where you’ll get more flowers and fruits. Sloes or blackthorns ( Prunus spinosa), are another good choice. Their vicious thorns create a perfect hideaway for birds, their flowers are much loved by bees, and their fruits are delicious infused in gin. It is shade tolerant and combines well with other native hedging, such as crab apples and dogwoods.
Of the many plums that can be allowed to grow into a wilder hedge, damson and mirabelle are my favourites. Both are cultivar groups of Prunus insititia; the damson is deep purple, dense, slightly dry and irresistible in jam while the more astringent, rounder, golden mirabelle is perfect for a plum tart. They do need to be allowed to grow tall and if you want plenty of fruit they can’t be clipped into a neat row. Both do best in south- or west-facing positions, in slightly moist soil that is neutral to acidic. In exposed areas, they are liable to have all their flowers frosted. If you’re battling biting sea winds and hill-top conditions then sea buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides, might be your jam. Its brilliantly tart berries are excellent for cooking with and it is incredibly tolerant of poor soil conditions.
Then there are crab apples ( Malus sylvestris), wild pears ( Pyrus communis), small but delicious, and the handsome quince ( Cydonia oblonga), which will need to be left to grow as a tree within the hedge. But the Japanese quince ( Chaenomeles japonica), can be clipped into a neat, low hedge. You could combine it with the juneberry ( Amelanchier x lamarckii), which isn’t a tree many think of as a hedge subject, but it makes a mighty fine one.
Whatever you end up choosing, a good hedgerow can truly offer a banquet for everyone from you to song birds and insects. From early spring right into winter these hedgerows can offer pollen, nectar and berries that persist deep into the frosts, as well as varied overwintering habitat for many different species. The spiny stems of sloe, for example, offer birds a safe nesting place away from cats where they can shelter from the worst of the winter weather with a ready food source. Hopefully they’ll leave some rich pickings for your larder too. n
• Author Alys Fowler is a gardener and garden writer. Her recommendations for the best edible hedging plants can be found over the next five pages.
Establishing these hedges can be simple, either as a single row or staggered into two or three rows for a thicker affair. If you are in a wind-ripped, coastal area it might be wise to think of using wind-mitigating netting to allow the hedge to get growing upright. You can get young whips into the ground from
October to March. Late autumn plantings tend to do better because they have had early winter to bed down and settle in and tend to make a march on spring growth.
The general rule of thumb is that you need to plant five bare root whips per metre for a hedgerow in two rows so that the plants are staggered roughly 33cm apart. Often you can get bundle deals for country hedgerows in offers of 50, 100 or 250 plants and this might be a good starting point if you have large hedgerow to establish. You can always cherry pick some extra edibles to add to the hedge. Fifty plants roughly equates to 16m metres of a single row hedge or 10m of a double row.
Ideally, your soil should be soft enough to push a spade right the way in before planting. If it’s not, you may want to consider rotavating or forking it over first. If you do it is wise to remove more persistent weeds at this stage as the ground does need to be clear. If you have well-rotted compost or manure then it’s always a good idea to add a layer. It will keep the weeds down and help feed the plants, and it does not need to be dug in.
For large hedges, it makes sense to use a weed-suppressing membrane and plant into this, which will help keep down weeds and lock in moisture. Plastic membrane is more permanent but will eventually leach into the soil, so better to opt for an eco alternative, such as jute, wool or cardboard matting. You’ll find these at suppliers such as Chimney Sheep (chimneysheep.co.uk) and Mulch Organic (mulchorganic.co.uk). Bare-root plants need to be planted at the depth of the soil mark on their main stems or if bought in containers to the depth they were in their pots. Firm in and prune back the tips of leggy plants and water in well. If you have deer or rabbits you will need to use guards. And it goes without saying that it is essential that you continue to water your hedge in dry weather as it establishes for the first year of its life.