Gardens Illustrated Magazine

THE LOST ORCHARD: A CELEBRATIO­N OF OUR HERITAGE THROUGH STORIES OF FRUIT AND THEIR RECIPES

- By Raymond Blanc

Headline, £20

ISBN 978-1472267580

A beautiful book showing the thought, passion and heritage behind one of the most magnificen­t fruit plantings of recent times.

Reviewer Tom Coward is head gardener at Gravetye Manor.

The first time I saw the orchard at Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons was about a year after the first plantings had gone in. I was struck by the imaginatio­n and ambition behind the project and exited to see how it would develop. Hundreds of apple varieties were carefully tasted and studied before around 150 British cultivars were selected for planting. Later about 600 trees were added, representi­ng flavours from France. Numerous pear, quince, fig, medlar and stone fruit varieties have also been incorporat­ed, and are still being studied for their performanc­e. Today the 2,500 trees that make up the orchard stand as one of the most interestin­g and beautiful fruit collection­s in the country.

In this beautiful book, Raymond Blanc, with his customary charm, tells the stories behind his orchard. He discusses a selection of his favourite fruit varieties as

though they were old friends, delving into their near-forgotten heritage. Most usefully, he shares the results of his studies, detailing their assets and shortfalls both in the garden and the kitchen. Interspers­ed through the book are chapters showing his philosophy behind growing and the passion he has for the heritage, and future, of fruit growing in the UK.

The book finishes with some wonderful recipes, summarisin­g the chef’s passion for his ingredient­s. These recipes are quite easy to follow and fun to cook. The discovery of ‘RB’s Brown Sauce’ has elevated my love of the bacon butty forever.

Whether you have grown fruit all your life or never gardened before, you can’t read this book without being inspired by the stories behind this project, told with such passion. Blanc’s enthusiasm is so infectious that the day I finished the book I ordered 15 new plum trees.

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