Gardens Illustrated Magazine

What you’ll need

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Traditiona­lly, ornate punch bowls or soup tureens were used to hold elaborate, pot-etfleur designs but any container could be adapted for a more contempora­ry approach including terracotta and ceramic bowls, willow baskets, glass aquariums or metal boxes, but if it’s not water tight, you’ll need to take care to protect the surface it sits on.

Within the main container you can use any sealed vessel to hold the cut flowers but if it will be partially visible, opt for more attractive containers, such as old ink pots or vintage glass bottles that have a wide base and thin neck. Glass test tubes are a good option but take care when burying them in case they break, and always secure safely.

A pin holder is an excellent way of accurately securing heavy stems. These discs of metal spikes are much relied on in the practice of ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging, lending a more naturalist­ic feel to an arrangemen­t. I also use several heavy, semi-spherical glass frogs to hold flowers and branch stems. Be sure to attach both of these securely to the base of the vase with floral putty or tape before arranging. A length of wide-gauge chicken wire scrunched into a loose ball will do a similar job. Sharp scissors or secateurs are also essential bits of kit; thorn and leaf strippers are useful too.

Before you start arranging your cut flowers, snip off the ends of picked stems and remove any foliage that will be below the water level and leave in deep water for up to 24 hours. Regularly topping up water levels or changing the water entirely every couple of days will help the arrangemen­t last longer as air locks and bacteria will quickly cause a stem to wilt.

Houseplant­s are easily killed through overwateri­ng, so using hydroleca clay expanded pellets will not only add an attractive finish to the container, they will also absorb extra water, slowly releasing it as the compost dries out. They help maintain a humid microclima­te around the plants when wet and even out fluctuatio­ns in the surroundin­g temperatur­e. Activated charcoal is another useful addition to the growing medium as it reduces the build up of impurities minimising odours.

Propriety brands of houseplant potting compost with an open, free-draining mix should be sufficient for most growing needs but you can improve drainage by adding perlite, vermiculit­e, horticultu­ral sand or grit. A top dressing of decorative gravel, clay pellets or moss will also reduce water loss.

A slim watering can with a long narrow spout for small spaces is ideal for these displays, but misting is an excellent way to maintain the humidity around plant leaves. • For stockists visit gardensill­ustrated.com

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