Lostwithiel
The historical gem of Cornwall’s former capital, combined with the spring spectacle of richly hued rhododendrons, exotic magnolias and groves of camellias, is hard to resist
The narrator of Daphne du Maurier’s
Rebecca is not the only person who dreams of returning to a special part of Cornwall. Between Bodmin Moor and the Fowey Estuary in the southeast, Lostwithiel is the perfect grid reference for exploring this county of coastline walks, cultural ghosts and bountiful flora.
History in every stone
‘Lostwithiel has more to show in a small space than any Cornish town,’ wrote Sir John Betjeman. Fore Street alone begins with the 14th-century Duchy Palace, and proceeds up a mainly Georgian slope, taking in John Webb pottery, interiors shop Alice in Scandiland and Watts Trading Organic Emporium. Liddicoats Butchers, next door, offers “the best pasties you will ever eat”, according to Alasdair Moore, of the Lost Gardens of Heligan. Crossing the medieval bridge, Lostwithiel Antiques Centre brims with garden-salvage treasure.
Tea by the fire
The Duchy of Cornwall Nursery, just outside of town, is superlative for breakfast, lunch or tea, with Restormel Castle nearby. Plants are the main point, however, grown by local specialists. The florist Rebecca Stuart of the Garden Gate Flower Company hosts workshops at the nursery, where she also grows her flowers. The nursery is a pleasant walk along wooded back lanes, passing Gillyflower Farm – Sir Tim Smit’s nascent ‘daughter of Heligan’ still in the planning stages.
Famous haunts
The South Coast Path is gloriously accessible. As the River Fowey widens into an estuary south of Lostwithiel, the harbour and extensive surroundings are a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Anyone keen to combine sea views, woodland streams and sandy coves (evoking Daphne du Maurier’s Manderley), could follow the 10.5km Gribbin Head
Walk, which circles around private Menabilly, the house that fired the author’s gothic imagination.
Quay to happiness
The charming harbour town of Fowey is accessible by coastal path (leave the car at the top of the town) or by ferry from Boddinick. Captain Hank’s Crab and Snack Shack is first rate, as is the Dwelling House for cream teas. The Fitzroy is run by the FriskneyBryers, who grow produce as well as tending North Street Kitchen, housed in a former boat shed. Another ferry heads to the fishing port of Mevagissey, with its quayside museum, terrific bookshop Hurley’s and Salamander fish restaurant. Those in the know buy their fish ‘still flapping’ by checking Facebook. The magic words are Fleet 51.
Heaven and earth
You’ll be spoilt for places to stay nearby. Besides the Duchy cottages at Restormel, there is Boconnoc, set in classic Cornish parkland with buildings decorated by interior designer Sarah Fortescue, some of which are in a Sir John Soane-designed stable yard. Mena
Woodwork, whose structures have featured at RHS Chelsea and Tatton Park Flower Shows, plans to lead tours in March and April from the old sawmill at Boconnoc, when the private gardens will also open. Enchanting Botelet is hidden down twisting lanes, with cottages and a couple of yurts. Here, Tia Tamblyn specialises in wellbeing and hosts workshops with Garden Gate.
Heading west
The Cornwall Garden Society Spring Show, now at the Royal Cornwall Showground, usually takes place in March. Caerhays Castle has a spectacular garden, still owned by the Williams family, who introduced Camellia x williamsii and Magnolia ‘Caerhays Surprise’. On the way, there is the lovely Tregrehan and the Lost Gardens of Heligan, home to a National Collection of pre-1920s camellias and rhododendrons.