Upstate New York Heading up

Famed for its fiery autumnal colour, the area of upstate New York east of the Hudson River is a garden lover’s paradise – especially those who love to indulge in a little antiquing

More of a state of mind than a specific destination, ‘upstate’ spans a huge area north of New York City, ending at the Canadian border. The upstate referred to here is limited to a slice of landscape east of the Hudson River, starting in the town of Hudson and flowing about 40 miles south. Peak autumn leaf viewing is mid-October.

Getting out of New York City by public transport can be complicated but Hudson, about 120 miles north of Manhattan, is reachable by direct train. With all the vim and vigour that a traveller might hope to find in an upstate town, Hudson offers a perfect weekend, not least in autumn (better known here as the fall). Start at Kitty’s Market, across the way from the train station, to eat or shop, or both. Lingering in grocery stores is natural when there is a café, including the excellent one at Otto’s Market in nearby Germantown. The revival and reimagining of old establishments is conspicuous all across Hudson’s Warren Street, in the middle of the town’s historic street grid, with too Harlemville, is considered to be one of the best suppliers of topnotch organic and biodynamic goods, while Churhtown Dairy is a leader in regenerative farming. In Ghent, there is Kinderhook Farm and Made in Ghent, both offering overnight stays. Hotels, round and about, stake their reputations on their locally sourced and beautifully produced food, open to all. These include Hotel Tivoli (in Tivoli), run by New York artists, Rivertown Lodge, Wm Farmer & Sons, and The Maker, all in Hudson. More spontaneous eating spots include Gaskins, Germantown and Roe Jan Brewing Company, Hillsdale.