SEVILLE QUEER SPACES
Seville’s rising status as an LGBTQ hotspot.
Spain’s almost-untouched national treasure and the birthplace of Flamenco and Tapas, it’s become a hotbed of LGBTQ activity. We took a trip to Seville to find out why there’s a greater influx of gay tourists and Spaniards soaking up the city’s evolving culture than ever before.
Seville; Spain’s almost-untouched national treasure, the birthplace of Flamenco and Tapas and a hotbed of LGBTQ activity. It’s hard to believe that such an actively religious city (where more than 20% of the population identify as catholic and the streets are lined with chapels and convents) is so forthcoming and progressive when it comes to LGBTQ visibility and acceptance.
I visited Seville for the first time last month alongside my boyfriend to try and decipher how it is that such intense religious activity can co-exist in a place that so progressively endorses sexual fluidity. Why is it that Seville is surpassing some of Spain’s other major cities when it comes to LGBTQ visibility?
We stayed in an Airbnb in the heart of the city, a gorgeous apartment not far from one of Seville’s most loved-landmarks, Metrosol Parasol – allegedly the world’s largest wooden structure. Utilising Airbnb was a great way for us to stay in-and-amongst the madness, with our apartment being close to Seville’s gay district as well as all the best tourist attractions. Our Airbnb host gave us a detailed breakdown of all the best places to visit, gay or otherwise. Following her amended map, we navigated the city’s narrow but picturesque streets. From an outsider’s perspective – and maybe I had this in mind simply because I knew I’d be writing this piece – there seemed to be a prevalence of both gay couples and nuns, living harmoniously in the old Spanish city. Gay men unapologetically held hands whilst walking down the street – the gay area itself could be mistaken for a Saturday night in Soho – all whilst the nuns would go about their daily business, picking up essentials for use at their respective convents. We had an opportunity to go inside the convent to buy some of the nuns’ famed jams and marmalades and were welcomed with open arms.
The co-existence of a buzzing LGBTQ community and Seville’s strong religious roots is, according to 24-year-old fashion stylist Serbian Bacon, down to the approach to religion being more fantastical than literal. “It’s not about religion, it’s about culture,” he explains. “People in Seville love to worship a Saint or a specific Christ – we have a lot! – but it’s something more folkloric than spiritual.”
The open-mindedness towards the LGBTQ community has been everin-progress. Andalusians (an autonomous community in southern Spain) were the first in the country to perform gender reassignment surgery in their medical centres. This was in the year 1999 and seven years before the official ruling came from the Spanish government to allow public health services to pay for gender-related surgeries across the entire country. With this in mind, it comes as no surprise that as well as hosting a Pride festival, Seville is also famed for hosting a Trans Pride – another nod towards the city’s progressive attitude. There’s even a weekend dedicated to gay bears and their admirers – the dates of which are firmly in our diaries...
Cruising is also still prevalent in the city. During one Sunday on our trip, we ventured to a market on the outskirts of town in an old car park. Enthused by the promise of archaic thrift and unique trinkets, we spent an hour walking to the seemingly derelict spot. Unbeknownst to us, the market no longer existed and we found ourselves in the middle of nowhere. We decided to
venture down to the river to see whether we’d missed something. As we ventured further away from civilisation and away from the main highway, people started to emerge from the trees and long grass, mostly older men with the exception of a few whom were a bit younger. You’d be forgiven for believing that, in a world dominated with online apps and mediums for hooking up, cruising would be an archaic sport. It quickly became clear that in Seville it is still very much alive and kicking. This is further evidenced by the city’s booming saunas, where gay men congregate to hang out and hook up.
Despite a seemingly pro-LGBTQ landscape, Serbian Bacon admits that there’s still some level of inequality and unacceptance when it comes to Seville’s view of the LGBTQ community. “Like in every place, you can see very conservative people against the LGBTQ community,” he explains. “When I was younger, people my age in Seville were more violent, they would shout at you just for having coloured hair or for dressing with feminine clothes. I don’t live in Seville anymore, but when I visit I can feel the city is more polite and kind.”
In 2016, a gay-friendly exhibition that appeared in the streets of Seville depicting men kissing was criticised by some political officials. Gregorio Serrano, a councillor for Spain’s Conservative and Christian political group, People’s Party (PP) said “the exhibition involves an absolute lack of respect for its own community. It is one thing to defend the rights of homosexuals, but it is another to show such poor taste.” Clapping back, Seville’s mayor Juan Espadas said “those who are scandalized are the ones out of line” describing Seville as “an inclusive society that respects sexual diversity and has already adopted respect for one another and our differences.” There’s clearly still a political stand-off when it comes to absolute equality of the minorities.
Regardless of the backlash, it’s undeniable that Seville’s acceptance of the LGBTQ community continues to develop and be recognised as a hotspot. As more saunas and gay bars crop up around city, there is a greater influx of gay tourists and Spaniards soaking up the city’s evolving culture. You know where you book your next flight.