A note from us.
Whether it is high energy catwalks or backstage catfights, the sassy gay assistant shading your new look, or the feared ice queen Editor, it’s not surprising that fashion has gained a reputation for being the land of chaos, caffeine and superficiality. I mean we’ve all seen the infamous belt scene from Devil Wears Prada, right? And don’t forget the trials and tribulations of Lauren Conrad working under Kelly Cutrone during The Hills era! We’re still traumatised. But for a moment, let’s step away from that scripted media circus. When you actually undress the dramatics and unravel the mystique, the industry is much deeper and more sentimental than it first appears, especially for our queer community.
Fashion for decades has been an open space for queer expression and visibility. Whether it’s drag, costume, or haute couture, the garments you choose to slip into become an emblem of your identity and evolve into political and social statements. We can instantly see the psychedelic free love protests during the 60s through the fluidity of menswear fashion. The edged up, leatherstudded aesthetic defined the rebellious punk movement of the 70s and even the crop top, double denim, Juicy Couture hot mess is an iconic testament to the early 00s. Bottom line, fashion is an impressive timestamp tool, that helps us reflect and document the changing tides of gender norms and queer expression throughout history.
So when curating The Fashion Issue, we looked to the past, present and future, to showcase the queer trailblazers of design. Jean Paul Gaultier bids farewell to the runway, not before putting on the biest extravaganza to close his 50-year career. We talk to the designer on the changes he’s seen throughout those five decades and his love for reinterpreting beauty standards. “I think that there is not one kind of beauty but many kinds. When you know how to look, beauty is everywhere. Beauty is not unique, it has millions of facets,” he tells us. Celebration and reflection continue when we delve into the wild world of Dsquared2. Co-founders Dean and Dan Caten celebrate the brand’s 25th anniversary, with the expansion of their ICON line. Double denim never looked so dreamy. “We found a little factory and we paid for everything, made the samples, and we sewed them,” Dan tells us from Milan, reflecting on the beginnings of their world-famous line. “We’ve done a lot over the years and we’ve come a long way, so we’re quite proud of that,” Dan adds. “We’re still standing on our own two feet and we’re proud of that as well!”
As for looking towards the future, there’s no one more fitting than bombshell siren Tokyo Stylez. Call it hair styling, wig making, or weave witchcraft, the star opens up about her transition and what it’s like being the creative brains behind some of the most iconic hair looks from Kylie Jenner and Cardi B. “I just felt that it was time to stop hiding who I am because I’ve been doing that for most of my life,” she tells us. “If I wasn’t being true to myself, then how would I help anybody else who might be going through the same thing? Being unapologetic has always been my attitude, so why change that during my transition to the woman I always was?”
As you travel into different times, visual aesthetics, and faces throughout this issue, the message is clear: Fashion is queer! There’s not a corner of this industry, from the designers, stylists, photographers, and even seamstresses, that the queer presence isn’t felt. It’s important to shine a light on these queer pioneers, who have and are shaping some of the most memorable pop culture moments from the decades before and those to come.
All this talk about time and reflection naturally has got me thinking back to being that young 15-year-old South Asian queer gazing into the world of fashion through the glossy pages of any magazine I could find. I didn’t think a decade on I would be creating my own pages. It doesn’t escape me for a second that people with names and complexions like mine are rarely given the opportunity to have a seat at the fashion table, and curate and direct visuals from their perspective. I’m not saying I’m the first, and I know I won’t be the last, but if my place at the table can lead to more opportunities for queer people of colour, then all the drama and stress of fashion is worth it. I’m not living that glamourous Wilhelmina Slater lifestyle I fantasised of, but the reality is much sweeter.
So although we cling onto the comedic and dramatic fashion stereotypes and tropes, the truth is that there’s a lot of heart, emotion and power that flows from creatives into the scribbles of a sketch, the stitches of a dress, and the pages of a magazine. Here’s to the future of fashion, where young queer talent is noticed, nurtured and supported. Diversity is made more present behind the camera - as much as it is in front - and creative opportunity is given for queer imagination and design to flourish.