GIN’S POTENTIAL ENERGY
Thinking about the spirit’s past, present, and future
Is gin dead? The cynical answer is ‘yes’, but I would argue it’s more complicated than that. As we move through 2023, gin as we know it will not be the same.
As a gin producer for the last six years, I sometimes find it hard to hear how our category is currently looked at. I get journalists, bartenders, and buyers saying that no one wants gin anymore, and that people are on to the next spirit. Is this true? Does no one want gin?
As consumers, we are led by trends. But trends develop or change, and none can last forever (see my Spice Girls moon boots for their opinion). No trend has been able to grow year on year without evolving. So yes, gin as we know it can’t stay the same. But let’s face it: this juniperbased spirit was created in the early 17th century and we have been producing it for hundreds of years, so I don’t see any sign of this ‘trend’ dying off. So, I choose to look at the category with another lens.
What defines gin? By definition, it is a clear alcoholic spirit distilled from grain or malt and flavoured with juniper berries. There are some brands out there that take that with a pinch of salt, but there is a lot of room for interpretation with this spirit. We are not encumbered by rules on production like other spirits, nor do we have strict countries of origin. This allows for incredible innovation and exploration. People’s palates are very different, and that is why there are so many enticing gin brands and flavours out there to discover: from umami capers to cotton candyfloss, there is a gin out there made for everyone.
Now let’s talk quality. Gone are the days of producing with turpentine and methanol. Our quality of base and modernisation of production over the last 100 years have taken this liquid to the next level. If you look back even to 2009, there weren’t many options out there. The big guys were really the only players. But the rise in quality in the last 10 years has produced some of the best liquid the world has ever tasted. I believe that we gin distillers are generating some of the best innovation that the spirits business has to offer.
The category has already grown so much, with the rise of London Dry, then a splash of Old Tom, which led to the love and explosion of flavoured gins. I think this is the time to step back, look at what we have created and get excited for what comes next.
When the pandemic hit, consumers’ buying habits changed overnight. People had the time to research and dive deep into what and why they were buying.
Customers started to connect with brands on multiple levels. Businesses had to make a conscious decision to show authenticity in what they do and why they do it. With the rise of the at-home bartender, consumers rediscovered a love of gin and its versatility – it’s not just for a G&T. As the drive for sustainability has become a key focus, factors like these breed innovation. Did you ever think we would be drinking gins made with peas or apples? We can’t produce the same way we did five years ago, or even simply think about it in the same light. The category is evolving and our industry is changing with it.
We can’t produce in the same way we did five years ago, or even think about it in the same light
So, we need to choose to adapt. This is where we will see the true innovators and creators come out. I feel that the gin category will morph into flavours and not be so confined by the labels that have so far defined it. We are moving from London Drys to botanical-led spirits that showcase the real craft behind the liquid.
I used to receive 10 emails a day from people saying they wanted to start a gin brand. Those emails have slowed down, as entering this fiercely competitive spirit category is extremely difficult. You need a point of difference to sustain in this business. So, as we all fight for shelf space and consumers are bombarded with endless choice, with the rise of the next spirit trend hot on our heels, I raise a glass of this timeless spirit and toast to what we were and what we will become.