Spring forward
IT’S HARD to believe, but autumn is almost upon us. And if you want a good show of flowers come March or April, most spring bulbs are best planted during September.
Snowdrops and daffodils start rooting early, so plant those as soon as possible (they should be on sale in most nurseries and garden centres by now).
Hyacinths and tulips don’t start rooting till a little later in the season, so delay planting them until October to avoid the risk that they’ll rot or be eaten.
Choosing bulbs
Select large, plump, firm bulbs – reject any that feel soft or have obvious cuts or other damage. If you’re buying early in the season, bulbs should still be dormant, but if you leave it later some may have started sprouting. Short, plump and green growth buds are OK but avoid bulbs with long or weak, spindly shoots.
Soil preparation
Native and nearly native spring bulbs (snowdrops, scillas, daffodils) do best in a situation with reasonably moisture-retentive soil. They are happy in the sun but will tolerate light shade so can be planted around the base of deciduous trees and shrubs. Before planting, remove any weeds, and fork in some well-rotted organic matter and a little bone meal or special bulb-planting fertiliser.
Other spring bulbs, however, need well-drained soil and a sunny, sheltered spot. Before planting, work in some well-rotted organic matter – pre-used potting compost or leaf mould are ideal – plus a small dose of feed. If planting valuable bulbs or those that rot easily such as foxtail lily (Eremurus) and crown imperial, it pays to place an inch of sand or grit at the base of the planting hole and sit the bulbs directly on this for better drainage. In a garden with heavy soil that stays wet in winter it’s best to grow bulbs like these in raised beds or in containers.
Planting in borders
Bulbs need to be planted deeper than most people usually realise – ideally they should be buried up to three times the height of the bulb, measured from base to tip. Dig the planting hole deeper than that to allow for forking in compost etc, then sit the bulbs in place down the hole and press them down firmly with a slight screwing motion, so the base of the bulb makes good contact with the soil beneath – this is vital for good rooting.
For naturallooking displays, group uneven numbers of bulbs down each planting hole, spacing them several inches apart. If naturalising large numbers of bulbs, scatter them around by hand, then dig a hole for each with a trowel (check first that they don’t end up in straight lines, which never looks natural).
Naturalising in grass
Some bulbs are brilliant for naturalising in lawns or rough grass. The best for the job include snowdrops, crocus, daffodils and snake’s head fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris). They look at their prettiest planted in informal teardrop-shaped drifts, on banks, or in patches around trees. Keep them in distinct areas to make them easier to mow round when cutting the rest of the grass. To plant small numbers, scatter bulbs randomly around over the grass, then use a proper bulb planter tool or a trowel to remove a core of turf. Drop a single bulb down it before replacing the divot over the top, and sprinkle blood, fish and bone fertilizer over the area afterwards.
For larger numbers it is often easiest to strip off a section of turf, then fork the soil thoroughly and improve it with compost and/or grit, before adding feed. Then plant the bulbs as usual and re-lay the turf over the top.
IT MAY ONLY BE SEPTEMBER, BUT NOW IS THE TIME TO START THINKING
AHEAD AND BEGIN PLANTING SOME BULBS