PAYSDESAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZISAWORLDAWAY
from an altitude of 905 metres. To reach the summit the following morning, I set out to take the Rhune train. At an average speed of just nine miles-per-hour, it takes 35 minutes to reach the heart of wild natural countryside. At the top, on the border between France and Spain, the breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views stretch from ocean to mountains.
From the handful of villages I manage to dart around, the one that continues to stay with me is Sare. Right on the border with Spain, the drive to the village is gorgeously antiquated and it’s clear to see why Sare is listed as “one of France’s most beautiful villages”.
I pass by the charming Hôtel Arraya. The venue dominates Sare’s square and I come to discover the building is formed with three old residences connected together around a tranquil, scenic secret garden.
Having eaten a Michelin-star dinner the night before, it’s the food of Sare I take away with me; rich and flavoursome red wine-infused foie gras with moreish brioche tapenade, followed by grilled beef tenderloin and then a large crème brûlée.
Food is such an important part of the Basque culture, and it’s this culture that gives the Basque people their identity. “We French live to eat. We do not eat to live,” I’m told by a local when I arrive in Ainhoa. If I tell her what my on-the-go diet usually consists of back home, she’d be horrified, I think. Instead, I flash a smile to hide my envy before “au revoir”.
A stroll along the rugged Lafitenia beach on my final morning sees me catch some rays and a light lunch. After just one weekend, I’ve been won over. Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I’ll be back again. Only, this time, our time together won’t be so brief.