Seasonal star
Hands-on time 15min, plus marinating. Cooking time 2hr
15min. Serves 6-8
2kg (4½lb) diced mixed game 4–5tbsp olive oil 4 onions, finely chopped 3 celery sticks, strings pared off and finely chopped 2 heaped tbsp tomato purée 1 litre (1¾ pint) chicken or beef stock 1 bay leaf 2 small sprigs rosemary 250–300g (9-11oz) dried egg pappardelle or other dried egg ribbon pasta for the marinade 300ml (½ pint) red wine 1tsp freshly ground black pepper 1tsp finely chopped rosemary leaves 6 juniper berries, crushed 2tbsp extra virgin olive oil Juice of ½ lemon to serve 4tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 4tbsp shaved pecorino cheese
Ideally, the meat needs to be in about 1cm (½in) dice, so cut it smaller if necessary. Put the meat and marinade ingredients into a non-corrosive bowl, mix well and leave for at least 4hr.
Place a sieve over a bowl, tip the meat into it and set it to one side. Put the marinade juices into a saucepan and simmer for about 10min until reduced by half. Set this aside, too.
To prepare the ragù, put the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and gently sauté onions and celery until soft and transparent. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate. Brown the meat in the pan, in batches, transferring each batch to the plate with the onion mixture. When all is done, put everything back in the pan and add the reduced wine marinade. Cook for 1min, then add the tomato purée. Cook for a further minute, then add the stock and herbs and simmer for about 1½–2hr, over a very low heat, until the meat is tender. Season with salt and pepper, then keep the ragù warm while you cook the pasta.
Put at least 3 litres (5¼ pint) water into a pan, add 1tbsp salt and, while it is boiling fast, add the pasta. Follow the cooking time on the packet – and when the pasta is tender, drain it, reserving a couple tbsp of the cooking liquid. Add the pasta to the ragù along with the reserved cooking liquid and simmer for a minute. Serve, scattering the parsley over and handing round the cheese.
PER SERVING (for 8, including cheese and parsley) 551cals, 65g protein, 16g fat (4g saturates), 29g carbs (6g total sugars), 4g fibre