TIME FOR CHANGE
‘Oestrogen levels decline with age, which can result in dryness, facial redness and skin sensitivity,’ says Dr Anjali Mahto. So that means the richer creams and nourishing oils can stay, and, if your skin is sensitive, go fragrance- and alcohol-free, as both can be irritating. ‘Essential oils can cause problems for sensitive skin, too,’ warns Dr Mahto. However, if you are still acne prone, or have blackheads, avoid oils, as they could be making things worse. Hyaluronic acid serums and mists are good for boosting hydration levels without overloading the skin.
Soap also has to go. Our skin has its own vibrant ecosystem, teeming with bacteria essential for maintaining its barrier functions, including protection from external aggressors and reducing inflammation (also a cause of ageing). The good bacteria are happy when skin ph is around 5, according to Marie Drago, co-founder of Gallinée skincare. Use common soap with an average ph of 10 and your skin gets out of balance, and will feel dry and uncomfortably tight. Studies with eczema sufferers show that some of the bad bacteria associated with the condition proliferate when the skin’s ph is out of whack. Equally P. acnes, the bad bacteria associated with acne, thrives at ph6, so soap can encourage breakouts. For those who love cleansing with a bar, Marie has created a soap-free Cleansing Bar, £9.90, that can be used on the face and body and is suitable for all skin types. As well as gentle cleansing ingredients and a ph close to 5.8, it contains skin-smoothing lactic acid to keep good bacteria happy, while not encouraging the bad.
Along with soap, alcohol is also on Marie’s cleansing ditch list – but for a different reason. She says it kills both good and bad bacteria, disturbing the skin’s equilibrium. But what else should you be wary of? Cleansing wipes, says facialist Abigail James. ‘I generally find they irritate the skin, plus they don’t remove all of your make-up, either. They also leave a film, which I always feel the need to wash away!’
So, cleanse gently both AM and PM – think products like balms and lotions, micellar waters and micellar wash-off gels. You could then pare down what happens next, taking inspiration from Dr Mahto’s minimalist approach, which includes moisturiser, if you need it, plus sunscreen and then a retinoid at night for anti-ageing, if required (retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are available on prescription from dermatologists and also in different forms in beauty creams – see our GHI test results on
Beauty That Works). Colette Haydon is also a fan of vitamin C for an instant detox and to remove oxidised sebum on your skin, which can create dull grey undertones. Her Lixir Vitamin C Paste, £32, is activated when you add water and is the ideal express morning mask for a vibrant, luminous and smooth complexion. New-found perkiness guaranteed!