MENOPAUSE & YOUR SKIN
Beauty director Eve Cameron explores the new products on the market for hormonally challenged skin
We look at the products designed for hormonally challenged skin
AGP recently told me that there are around 51 symptoms of menopause and the perimenopause that precedes it. These include formication (that’s with an ‘m’, dear reader), which is best described as the sensation of having ants crawling over you. I’ve had that. And the night sweats and tiredness. And the one where you need to read something five times before you can follow simple instructions, aka brain fog.
Then there’s your skin. Your thirsty, thirsty skin that’s as moody as a teenager asked to tidy their bedroom. Sensitivity, sagging, visible pores, dark spots of pigmentation, redness, lack of ‘glow’ and those creases that started off as expressive laughter lines but are now permanent punchlines are the welcome party to estrogen-deficient skin (EDS, a term coined in the US, hence the spelling).
In perimenopause, your hormones fluctuate, potentially starting a rollercoaster ride of symptoms. Then, at menopause, your oestrogen and progesterone levels fall. At the post-menopause stage, they crash. The effects and implications of oestrogen decline in our bodies is well documented, but there’s less awareness of its relevance to skin, perhaps because the messages about sun damage and ageing skin are louder.
All change
Less oestrogen means less collagen and elastin are produced, there’s less connective tissue and the skin thins and its barrier function is easily compromised, so it struggles to balance its normal functions of protection and repair. ‘The cells that produce melanin (melanocytes) are also under oestrogen’s control, so when hormonal changes come about, patchy pigmentation can result,’ explains dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall. And there’s more… ‘Oestrogen is thought to afford a degree of protection from UV rays,’ adds Dr Hextall. ‘Also, an imbalance of oestrogen and testosterone, a hormone that women also produce, can herald breakouts for some of us.’
Just as replacing oestrogen levels with hormone replacement therapy (HRT) alleviates some menopausal symptoms, many women also see improvements in their skin when taking it. Obviously, HRT is never prescribed for that reason and, of course, you may be unable to or not want to take HRT, so what can skincare offer?
A brighter outlook
Phytoestrogens (plant-derived extracts that have a weak oestrogenic effect), such as soy isoflavones, have been used in creams for years. They’re notable for their brightening capabilities and can work to increase skin thickness for that all-important healthy skin barrier. You’ll find them in the excellent Veneffect range, from £48; and Dermalogica Super Rich Repair, £78. A side note on oestrogen-positive cancer: while there’s no evidence suggesting that phytoestrogens in skincare penetrate into your system, if you have or have had an oestrogen-positive cancer, you’ll understandably be cautious, so speak to your oncologist.
My head has recently been turned by the brand Emepelle (emepelle.co.uk), which uses methyl estradiolpropanoate (MEP) as its hero ingredient. It’s a non-hormonal substance that mimics oestrogen to reactivate the receptors we have in our skin, leading to collagen stimulation and a thicker epidermis. Emepelle combines MEP with trusted actives, such as niacinamide, and antioxidants in an oil-free serum to improve skin tone and texture, designed to be used in the morning. In its night cream, MEP is combined with retinol to tackle lines and smooth the skin’s surface. I have been using
Perimenopause can start a rollercoaster ride of symptoms
them and they are truly impressive. Because the night cream contains retinol (which can irritate skin), you may want to build up your tolerance by using it a couple of times a week at first and slowly increasing usage, especially if you’ve found your skin has become more sensitive with menopause. The niacinamide and retinol should help with any breakouts, too. Here’s the rub: they’re pricey (£135 for the serum and £175 for the cream), but apart from cleanser and a moisturising SPF, you may not need anything else. Another side note: MEP hasn’t been specifically tested on those with cancer, and although it’s non-hormonal, with a safety study showing it breaks down without systemic oestrogen side-effects, I’d say you should include this in a conversation with your oncologist.
Get your glow back
Elsewhere, Clarins has focused its attention on the post-menopausal, 60-plus woman with its new Nutri-lumière line. After a study reported that a lack of radiance in the skin was key to whether someone is perceived to be older or younger than their years, Clarins looked at microcirculation and nutrient depletion in 60-plus skin. The resulting range reboots both by using horse-chestnut and botanical extracts. The products themselves are nourishing without feeling heavy, though one of our testers preferred the lighter-textured Nutri-lumière Day Emulsion to the Day Cream, both £90, for her (still) combination skin. There’s also a night cream, £94, and treatment essence, designed to be layered under moisturiser for extra brightness and hydration. All of our testers reported that the products helped them regain their glow. If it’s a loss of elasticity and firmness that bothers you most alongside dehydration, whether you’re post or perimenopausal, look to Prai’s Platinum range (I’ve had good feedback on the Firm & Lift Creme, £35, and Caviar Serum, £38) and also Shiseido’s Vital Perfection collection, from £100. Firming is a tricky area in skincare (a magic bullet doesn’t exist and results tend to be subtle), but the majority of testers aged 45 to 58 in Shiseido’s trials reported improvements in sagging after as little as one week’s use of the Uplifting and Firming Cream and the Enriched version, both £100.
Extra support
Of course, you could simply integrate a serum or two with targeted ingredients into your routine of cleanse, moisturise and SPF (those are the daily essentials). Vitamin C is a well-established skin brightener and can help fade dark spots, retinol works on lines and skin texture, and hyaluronic acid adds extra hydration support – The Inkey List and The Ordinary are good value at between £5 and £10. Go slowly with vitamin C (AM) and retinol (PM) if your skin is sensitive or very dry, and introduce one new product at a time, using it every few days to check your tolerance.
A hydrating facial mist, such as Megsmenopause Rosey Rain, £14.99, is a helpful buy. Sprayed directly on to your face or into your hands and pressed into the skin, they make for a cooling, refreshing extra layer of comfort, and you can use them for a hydration hit during the day, even over make-up.
Then there’s an altogether different kind of skincare ingredient: yoga. This time in our lives can be stressful because as well as handling hormonal changes, we’re juggling jobs, children and ageing parents, so one of the best things we can do for ourselves is to engage in a regular stress-lowering activity for our minds, bodies and skin. Chronic stress is known to aggravate certain conditions and accelerate skin ageing. My stress-buster is yoga. I can’t claim it helps alleviate every one of those 51 menopausal symptoms, but I am convinced my skin’s healthy glow comes as much from sun salutations as from my moisturiser.