We’ve connected round the table
Our eating habits have changed dramatically, and some of these trends look set to continue.
Since the lockdown first started, nine in 10 of us has changed the way we eat, according to research by environmental charity Hubbub, nearly half of us have started cooking more, and a similar number have been enjoying spending more time eating with family or those we live with.
With restaurants closed, the kitchen has become more central than ever to our way of living. The thrice-daily ritual of mealtimes has provided much-needed structure, and the process of cooking and baking has provided a creative and calming outlet for many.
‘We’ve reconnected through a shared love of food, which is wonderful to see,’ says Martyn Lee, executive chef at Waitrose & Partners. ‘We have really valued the time we spend with families, and special moments around the dinner table have become more important. Now we’ve ignited that spark, it is naturally going to continue.’
More than half (57%) of those surveyed by Hubbub said they began valuing food more during lockdown.
It’s a time of experimentation, says Martyn. ‘People are looking into their cupboards and wondering what they can do with the things they have in there. They are getting more creative at using what they have. As well as cooking comfort food, many are looking at more experimental cuisines, especially Thai, Chinese and Japanese. If they can’t go to restaurants for excitement and inspiration, they are trying to get it at home. While they’ll want to support restaurants when they open, they will also continue to create that experience at home.’
Not only have we been digging deep for inspiration, we’ve also got better at planning more and wasting less. In the Hubbub survey, almost half of people say they are trying to throw away less food and, of those wasting less, half are planning more carefully and four in 10 are getting better at using leftovers.
‘The way that people are navigating their storecupboards and peering into their freezers for inspiration is one of the great positives to come out of this,’ says Martyn.
GH’S cookery director, Meike Beck, agrees. ‘I imagine that, going forward, weekly meal planning will become more popular, helping with food costs, minimising waste and managing stress,’ she says. ‘We’ve also got smarter about food waste, scrubbing up on use-by and best-before dates and making their storecupboards work harder.’
‘Baking has been a big comfort during the long days of lockdown, requiring calm and concentration while allowing us to create something special for those we love,’ she adds.
The ritual of eating together may be a lasting legacy from lockdown, more possible now with people working from home than when long working hours and packed diaries pushed families apart. A fifth of us are sitting at the table for meals together, according to research by John Lewis & Partners, with more than a third spending longer cooking meals than usual.
‘Before, we were so time poor, but now people will want to hold on to the joy of eating together,’ says Martyn.
People are also shopping differently, with a third saying in the Hubbub survey that they are supporting more smaller, local businesses than before. Nine in 10 say they’ll continue to do so once the restrictions are over.
But amid all the positive shifts towards more mindful eating and shopping, there are some notes of caution. Trewin Restorick, CEO of Hubbub, said: ‘Our polling reveals a divided nation. Some families are eating together more, young people are learning to cook, people want to know more about growing food and are planning meals better and using up leftovers. More people are shopping locally. But what is of concern is that just under half are more worried about food than previously and 43% are concerned about the cost of food.’
Over half of those surveyed said they began valuing food more than before the restrictions were imposed