THE DRIVES OF YOUR LIFE: CROATIA An island-hopping adventure
If you’re longing for a wonderful adventure, this island-hopping road trip will tick all the right boxes when we can travel again,
THE ROUTE Dubrovnik to Rovinj, Istria, via Korčula, Split, Zadar and Plitvice Lakes (812km)
Long, narrow and mushrooming into a T-shape in the north, Croatia is ideal for a scenic road trip. And scenic it certainly is, with 1,777km of Adriatic coastline, unspoilt beaches, more than 1,000 islands, turquoise lakes, fortified towns, vineyards, ancient villages and wild boar, bear and wolves roaming the mountains.
Fly into coastal Dubrovnik, a dream of a city, with its red-roofed houses, elegant palaces, shady cafe-lined squares and medieval honey-coloured stone walls that encircle the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town.
Driving directly from here to Split, Croatia’s second city, may mean very long queues to cross the Neum corridor, a 9km sliver of Bosnia-herzegovina. Much better is to take a scenic detour west through the rugged Pelješac Peninsula, catching the ferry from Orebić for a couple of days on the pretty, densely forested island of Korčula. Once back in Orebić, cross the peninsula to Trpanj, take another ferry to mainland Ploče and then hit the scenic D8 Adriatic coast road for the 135km drive to Split.
Lively Split has plentiful ferry routes to the islands, so try to see Brač, Hvar and Vis before heading north. Take a side trip east from Zadar to the spectacular Plitvice Lakes, then back to seaside Senj on routes 52 and E71, along the E65, a beautiful coastal stretch past Rijeka, into Istria, and ending with some well-earned downtime in impossibly pretty Rovinj.
THE PLAYLIST
CHOOSE A SUITABLY UPLIFTING SOUNDTRACK TO MATCH CROATIA’S AWE-INSPIRING BEAUTY
Smooth Criminal by 2Cellos
(aka Luka Šulić and Stjepan Hauser)
Mirakul by Gibonni
Mamma Mia and Dancing Queen by ABBA Carrying Cannon Back To Africa by Fog Frog Dog
Nesto Drugo by Pseća Plaža
THE PIT STOPS
DUBROVNIK This magnificent coastal city has 16th-century walls, lovely beaches, and the 300-metre Stradun, one of the world’s most beautiful streets. Hop in a cable car to enjoy the best city views. After seeing the cathedral, the 15th-century Rector’s Palace and taking the short ferry ride to forested Lokrum island, fans of Game Of Thrones should try the dedicated walking tour (kingslandingdubrovnik.com). STON On the Pelješac Peninsula, an hour north of Dubrovnik, Ston is famous for its salt pans, ancient stone walls, oysters, mussels and Dingač Skaramuča winery.
SPLIT See the Diocletian’s Palace and the historical centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, climb the Cathedral of St Domnius bell tower, then check out the bars and restaurants along the Riva (harbour).
ZADAR Alfred Hitchcock called Zadar’s sunsets the best in the world. Less touristy than Dubrovnik, it’s a good base for hiking in the Velebit Mountains and Plitvice Lakes National Park. Don’t miss Nikola Basic’s mesmerising waterfront installations.
PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK
Rivers, dramatic waterfalls and 16 turquoise lakes are all at this unmissable UNESCO World Heritage Site (plitvice-lakes.info).
ROVINJ This pretty harbour town is all cobbled lanes, galleries, waterside restaurants and cocktail bars (Valentino, valentino-rovinj.com, and Mediterraneo) with seats right on the rocks.
MOTOVUN This little hill town is famous for its truffles. Taste them at the legendary Restaurant Zigante (restaurantzigante.com).
THE FOOD & DRINK
Konobas are traditional taverna-style restaurants serving local dishes: try Pag sheep’s cheese, blitva (chard, potatoes and olive oil), brudet (a fish stew with onions and tomatoes) and Viška pogača (bread stuffed with onions, anchovies and tomatoes).
To drink, try grk, Korčula’s dry white; Malvasia, Istria’s fruity white; Dingač and Postup (reds from the Pelješac Peninsula).
You must taste Rakija, a grape brandy sometimes flavoured with fig, pear or walnut.
THE ISLANDS
KORČULA Croatia’s sixth-largest island is popular for its pine forests, vineyards, olive groves, pretty beaches and excellent wine. The Old Town is particularly pretty. VIS Unspoilt Vis is a lush little isle with white pebble and sandy beaches and Venetian-influenced architecture.
BRAČ This lovely island is home to the much-instagrammed V-shaped Zlatni rat beach. Most ferries arrive in Supetar, the island’s liveliest town, which is full of waterfront cafes and restaurants. HVAR Croatia’s most glamorous island is covered in lavender in June and July. If the yacht scene and partying of medieval Hvar town is not your thing, decamp to peaceful Stari Grad or Jelsa.
THE RESTAURANTS
NAUTIKA, Dubrovnik Book a table outside for a magical seaside setting (nautikarestaurants.com).
LD PALACE, Korčula A Michelinstarred eatery specialising in modern Dalmatian food (ldrestaurant.com).
ZORI RESTAURANT, Hvar
Take a boat taxi from Hvar Town to the tiny island of St Klement for delicious fish and sea views (zori.hr).
KOPAČINA, Brač Lamb is a Brač speciality, and Kopačina has the best (konoba-kopacina.com).
VILLA KALIOPA, Vis Pricey but pretty, with a lovely garden and good seafood. Cash only. DVOR, Split Try pašticada in the gorgeous beachfront garden (facebook.com/ Dvor.split).
PUNTULINA, Rovinj
Order truffle pasta at this romantic seafront restaurant (puntulina.eu).
THE HOTELS
LEŠIĆ DIMITRI PALACE, Korčula
Luxury apartments in a 17th-century bishop’s palace. Doubles from £312, room only (relaischateaux.com).
VILA NEPOS, Split This has four gorgeous apartments in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace. Doubles from £170, room only (vilanepos.com).
ST JOSEPH’S, Dubrovnik Built within the city walls, this revamped 16th-century townhouse has just six suites. Doubles from £243, B&B (stjosephs.hr).
HOTEL STARI GRAD, Dubrovnik
A converted 16th-century mansion with a rooftop restaurant. Doubles from £230, room only (hotelstarigrad.com). HOTEL MONTE MULINI, Rovinj
This contemporary seaside luxury hotel has 113 rooms, four outdoor pools and two excellent restaurants. Doubles from £147, B&B (montemulinihotel.com).
HOTEL LEMONGARDEN, Brač
These 18th-century stone houses have 35 pretty rooms and a private beach. Doubles from £220, B&B (lemongardenhotel.com).
LITTLE GREEN BAY, Hvar
A stylish seaside boutique hotel with 15 rooms. Doubles from £340, B&B (littlegreenbay.com).
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ROUTE INSPIRATION
What to watch and read to get you in the mood… Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again This was mostly filmed in the Vis village of Komiza and on the island’s Stiniva Bay.
Game Of Thrones Dubrovnik’s fortified walls feature as King’s Landing.
Star Wars: Episode VIII, The Last Jedi Dubrovnik doubles as planet Canto Bight. Robin Hood In Otto Bathurst’s 2018 film, Dubrovnik is medieval Nottingham.
Chasing A Croatian Girl (Createspace Publishing) US author Cody Mcclain Brown follows his heart to be with his Croatian girlfriend. The Cellist Of Sarajevo (Atlantic Books) A haunting tale by Steven Galloway set in neighbouring Bosnia.
Under A Croatian Sun
(Thistle Publishing) Anthony Stancomb’s Croatian take on
A Year In Provence.
The People We Were Before (Quercus) A story set in 1990s war-torn Yugoslavia by Annabelle Thorpe.