The skin doctor
For consultant dermatologist at Skin55 Dr Anjali Mahto, professional brands are worth the cost.
Don’t believe the hype. When new ingredients emerge, I’m sceptical until I’ve seen the trial data. Probiotics are very popular, for example, but the skin’s microbiome is unique to each of us and I’m not convinced that one formula can benefit everyone. It’s not as exciting, but I would always trust a scientifically tested anti-ager like retinoids (derived from vitamin A) over the latest trend.
Loyalty is overrated; shop around. Most brands have one ‘star’ product. You don’t need to spend a fortune buying every single item from one range. Spend more on a sunscreen if it means you’ll use it. Wearing an SPF daily has repeatedly been shown to protect skin against premature ageing and skin cancer, so the cost is immaterial. Because I’m prone to breakouts, one of the few sunscreens I can happily use is Heliocare 360°
Gel Oil-free SPF50 [2], £27.
Luxury skincare is like designer clothing. The price can be more about the name than the product itself. If I’m spending money, I’d rather spend it on professional brands. During lockdown, I maintained the results of my last chemical peel with Mesoestetic
Dermamelan Cream [4], £149.99. It is pricey, but it contains brilliant brightening ingredients such citric and azelaic acid, to shift pigmentation and keep my skin tone clear. It should last me for about three months. Most eye creams don’t have any real anti-ageing power. Very few will eliminate dark circles either, which are generally caused by genetics and ageing. I normally pat my face serum around the eye area, though I do recommend Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Eye
Serum [3], £70, especially if you have sensitive skin. It’s gentle but still makes a difference. Understand what you’re buying, whether it’s £5 or £50. Retinoids, for example, are especially confusing. Look for retinol or retinaldehyde on the ingredient list, not the weaker and less efficient retinyl ester. This means you’re getting the most effective formula in your price bracket. Exfoliating acids are brilliant multitaskers.
Particularly glycolic acid, which lifts away the top layer of skin cells to reveal new ones beneath, boosts collagen production and hydrates skin. I like using The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution [1], £6.80, after my evening cleanse.
I’d rather buy professional brands than luxury ones