BEAUTY RULES
From stay-put foundation to fending off ‘maskne’, meet the skincare and make-up tricks that are making modern life more beautiful
New tricks
This time last year, who knew our daily lives were about to change in ways big and small? From how we meet up with friends to the face coverings we’d be wearing every day. And with new safety protocols came new challenges in skincare and make-up. How to look good in an online family catch-up or board meeting? How to keep faces happy under a mask? GH reveals how to navigate these daily hurdles…
HOW TO… keep skin comfortable under a face covering
THE MYSTERY OF MASKNE The congestion caused by wearing a face covering now has a snappy name all of its own – say hello to ‘maskne’. ‘The warm environment created under a mask is an optimal breeding ground for bacteria,’ explains consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible Dr Anjali Mahto. ‘And anything that irritates hair follicles, such as the constant rubbing of fabric, can cause spots to form.’ Clarifying cleansers with salicylic acid help to control excess sebum, although if skin is dry, Dr Mahto prefers a strategic approach. ‘Use targeted spot treatments rather than blemish-reducing face washes, which can dry out the entire face,’ she says. Keep the skin’s surface clear by sweeping away dead cells with an exfoliating toner; Dr Mahto recommends PHAS (polyhydroxy acids, such as gluconolactone and lactobionic) for mature skin, which hydrate as they exfoliate and are gentler than AHAS (alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic and lactic). Use these once or twice a week to prevent sensitising skin and making it more susceptible to breakouts. Heavy oils and creams can clog pores when coupled with the heat underneath the mask, so keep moisturisers light, choosing gel textures and lotions, and layering on a hydrating hyaluronic serum first if skin feels particularly parched. Pimple patches are handy if a spot is sore, as they treat while preventing direct contact with the cloth. Retinoids and benzoyl peroxide are also effective ingredients to incorporate into your skincare routine, though those prone to cystic acne (painful bumps underneath the skin, which can worsen under a mask) will fare better with prescription-strength creams from a GP or dermatologist.
AND WHEN THE ‘SPOTS’ AREN’T ACNE?
Here’s where things get complicated: in some cases, what looks like maskne isn’t maskne at all, but an inflammatory rash. Perioral dermatitis, or POD, generally appears around the nose and mouth, often along the smile lines, with scaly red or dry patches and pimple-like bumps. ‘I have seen quite a few cases recently where a combination of rich skincare and masks has led to development of POD,’ says dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams. ‘The skincare on its own may not have caused any issues, but with an occlusive mask on top, the richness was then too much.’ As with maskne, she
recommends switching to lighter moisturisers with no oils or silicones, though that’s where the similarities end, as blemish-busting ingredients will irritate POD. Cleanse gently to allow skin to build back its protective barrier, and cut out essential oils, fragranced skincare, actives (such as retinol), chemical exfoliants (AHAS, BHAS and PHAS) and vitamin C. Instead, look for healing and anti-bacterial hypochlorous solutions and skin soothers zinc, probiotics, niacinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5) and sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid). Healing can take weeks rather than days, so have patience, keep the area as free of make-up as possible, and consider a temporary switch to a toothpaste without fluoride and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS, a foaming agent), as both can trigger flare-ups. Avoid steroid creams such as hydrocortisone, which worsen POD in the long run; persistent cases may need prescription skincare and possibly antibiotics from a GP or dermatologist.
A SENSITIVE ISSUE
Regular mask wearing can also spell trouble for rosacea, eczema or sensitive skin. ‘For anybody suffering with rosacea, I strongly recommend single-use disposable masks rather than re-usable fabric ones, as the collection of bacteria in fabric masks can aggravate rosacea.’ says Dr Williams. ‘Also, the thicker the mask, the more it occludes the skin, which can also contribute. Repeated friction can have an influence on sensitive or eczema-prone skin. Here, silk masks are a good choice, as silk is kind to the skin, hypoallergenic and doesn’t cause much friction.’ But make sure your mask meets guidelines recommended by the WHO for better protection against Covid-19. Dr Williams also advises washing reusable fabric masks daily with non-bio, non-fragranced detergent. If friction across the top of the cheeks and bridge of the nose is beginning to irritate otherwise healthy skin, try creating a barrier by patting an emollient cream along the join where mask meets skin.
HOW TO… shield skin while socialising outside
Winter can be tough on skin and, as more of our socialising takes place in the elements, we may see a rise in dryness and irritation, says consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth. ‘Exposure to cold temperatures increases water loss and depletes natural lipid levels, leaving skin drier and prone to sensitivity. This year, it’s likely we will see more of these issues than usual and, as rapid temperature changes can trigger facial flushing, going in and out frequently will also be problematic for anyone prone to redness.’ Dr Wedgeworth recommends cutting out anything that can damage the skin’s outer layer. ‘This barrier is essential and locks in hydration and keeps environmental aggressors out,’ she says. ‘Use non-foaming cleansers, avoid acids and alcohol-based products and replace with nourishing, hydrating
ingredients, such as shea butter and squalene, and use niacinamide and ceramides to boost lipids.’ If you find richer creams too heavy to wear during the day with a face covering, introduce them at night. ‘Overnight is the perfect opportunity for skin to repair and renew, away from daytime exposure to UV and pollution,’ says Dr Wedgeworth.
During the day, protect skin with a hydrating, non-pore blocking sunscreen of SPF 30 or above. ‘While the UVB index is lower in winter, UVA (which is responsible for wrinkles and pigmentation) is constant throughout the year,’ says Dr Wedgeworth. Antioxidant protection, ideally with vitamin C, is also important to boost skin’s defence against pollution.’ She also points out that skincare is not just what we put on our skin: ‘Turn the heating down a couple of degrees, as indoor heating can compromise barrier function, and consider a humidifier if your skin is extra dry and sensitive. Also look to your diet and include plenty of essential fatty acids such as oily fish, nuts and seeds, or add an omega-3 supplement. If you are still having significant problems with sensitive, dry skin or redness-prone bumpy skin, you may need to see a doctor. Conditions such as eczema and rosacea are likely to get worse over the winter and may need medical treatment.’