PROBIOTICS

Topical application of healthy bacteria is credited with re-balancing the skin’s protective acid mantle and microbiome, restoring calm and optimal skin function.

Unlikely

‘I don’t see how this can work,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. ‘Most probiotic skincare does not contain “live” bacteria but “lysates”: essentially dead bacterial cell walls. There is little evidence that this provides any benefit. Secondly, much of the bacteria used in skincare are based on what we know of the gut microbiome, but it’s a leap of faith to assume that the bacteria that improve our gut could also benefit our (very different) skin microbiomes. Thirdly, each skin microbiome is highly individual, consisting of many more than the one or two strains of bacteria routinely used in skincare, and comprising not only bacteria, but also yeast, fungus, mould and viruses. It’s unlikely we can replicate this with limited emerging science.’

On the other hand

‘The point of probiotic skincare is not to “repopulate” the microbiome with live bacteria,’ says pharmacist and Gallinée skincare founder Marie Drago. ‘Live or not, we don’t want them to stick around after performing their function on skin.’ Functions such as? ‘They show impressive soothing and moisturising properties in trials by our suppliers and in published clinical trials. The dead bits of bacteria have receptors that get recognised by skin cells and trigger an action. They are also a food source for resident “good” bacteria and proven to positively stimulate any skin microbiome,’ explains Marie. As for using just a few species (notably lactobacilli), organic chemist Trevor Steyn of Esse Skincare has this to say: ‘Our skin microbiomes derive from the mother’s vaginal microbiome during birth, which is massively dominant in lactobacillus species. These produce peptides, which are toxic to harmful bacteria and viruses and keep skin from flaring up (which is not just annoying but ageing as well). Some also produce hyaluronic acid and lower skin’s ph, both of which are beneficial.’ Live probiotics (used in Esse products) are the gold standard, claims Steyn, but ‘dead fragments do trigger similar results’.