THE GOOD OIL GUIDE

While there are new oils that may rival or trump the best serums, they come at a price. So how do you know you’re not paying over the odds? This checklist is a good start. An oil that ticks every box won’t be cheap – but it should be spectacular.

IS IT SINGLE ESTATE? Like wine and olive oil, a single estate oil with good traceability, preferably organic, which is crucial for essential oils and grape seed to avoid pesticide contamination, means better quality. WHERE HAS IT COME FROM?

Oils and plant extracts that survive in extreme environments (the Sahara, Kalahari, Andes, Amazon, sea bed) tend to be rich with vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals.

IS IT BIOACTIVE? Bioactives, often derived from seaweeds, algae and shoreline plants, elevate your oil to ‘serum’ performance level. A term such as ‘native plant cell extracts’ should also inspire confidence. The packaging will draw attention to this; the same for clinically proven, liposoluble synthetic actives.

WHAT INGREDIENTS TOP THE LIST? If ‘super’ seed oils (lingonberry, prickly pear, moringa, chia, baobab, oat and rosehip) feature first, you’re dealing with a premium product. If the list starts with caprylic/capric triglyceride (a nature-derived but synthesised commodity oil), your oil is cutting corners.

HOW WAS IT EXTRACTED? If the packaging speaks of cold-pressing, steam distillation or enzymatic and supercritical CO2 extraction, you’re on to a good one.

DOES THE SCIENCE STAND UP? Can your brand show in vitro (test tube) and in vivo (on skin) clinical efficacy trials? Is there a complex exclusive to the brand that has been proven? You want to pay a premium for (expensive) scientific rigour, not for raw ingredients and pretty packaging.