DIVERSITY
BECAME ESSENTIAL
Finally, fashion expanded its definition of beauty. Laura Antonia Jordan reports… UNTIL RECENTLY, FASHION’S
definition of diversity was, ironically, very limited. A couple of non-typical castings spoke of lazy tokenism rather than genuine inclusivity. But in 2017, the industry upped its game, giving mould-breaking models their rightful moment in the spotlight. Models of different races, shapes, sizes, ages and genders shattered a narrow definition of beauty. And in a year when bigotry has been handed a megaphone on the world stage, this is more welcome than ever.
Nowhere could you see the spirit of inclusivity writ larger than on the catwalk. In its biannual Diversity Report (which tallies the 2,601 appearances at some 94 shows), the Fashion Spot celebrated September’s NYFW as its most diverse to date, with 36.9% non-white castings – up 31.5% on the previous season – and 90 plus-size model appearances (34 excluding specialist brands). Standout moments included a pregnant model at Eckhaus Latta and trans nightlife icon Sophia Lamar at the rebooted Helmut Lang.
In London, disabled model Kelly Knox walked at Teatum Jones, and Jan de Villeneuve, 72, modelled at Simone Rocha and Osman. Street casting ‘real’ women also became more prevalent. ‘ We were tired of the standardised image of what a model should look like… needs this height, these measurements – it makes no sense!’ Marta Marques told us about the decision to use friends of the brand alongside traditional models in both Marques’almeida shows this year, at Rejina Pyo and more.
Of course, you’d expect young, ‘edgier’ brands to embrace change, but this season luxury labels were also broadening their
outlook – could the establishment be finally cottoning on to the fact that a one-note definition of beauty is a little, well, boring? At Alexander Mcqueen’s S/S ’18 show, two larger than traditional models – Betsy Teske and Eline Lykke – captured the essence of Sarah Burton’s unbridled femininity, while Ariel Nicholson Murtagh, 16, who happens to be transgender, debuted at Calvin Klein in September. Vetements brought its normcore aesthetic to life with a street-cast show in Paris in July. At Marc Jacobs’ 25th anniversary catwalk in September, the cast was over 50% non-white, ditto Miu Miu. And Dries Van Noten’s A/W ’17, his 100th show, starred some of his favourite muses from the ’90s (Nadja Auermann and Cecilia Chancellor, in their fifties, among them).
Campaigns were also more diverse. Gucci’s pre-fall 2017 ads had a cast of all-black models; Dolce & Gabbana and Vivienne Westwood both used curvy models. And for its first foray into lingerie, Amazon chose Muay Thai boxer Mia Kang to front its campaign.
And of course, there are the models who have gone stellar: outspoken Adwoa Aboah, who topped off a prolific 2017 by being crowned Model of the Year at the Fashion Awards. Or hijab-wearing Halima Aden, who scored several magazine covers ( including Grazia’s Big Fashion Issue). Then there’s Ashley Graham, who became the first curve model to join the top 10 world’s highest earning models this year.
These are significant steps, but the fact diversity is still news means huge progress still needs to be made. We mustn’t rest until the new normal is: there is no normal.