In case of dermergency
We think nothing of seeing a dentist or optician, so why don’t more people see a dermatologist for their skin? Cassie Steer investigates
It’s tough being british: forever apologising, having to maintain those stiff upper lips, not to mention putting up with an overwrought epidermis. That’s right, when it comes to skin issues, us long- suffering Brits have been handed a rather raw deal. The reason? Because our relationship with people whose job it is to cosset our complexions – namely dermatologists – is non-existent.
‘ Women in this country accept a rather poor lot with their skin,’ says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. ‘ They often find that their local doctor doesn’t take much of an interest and they end up thinking what they have is what they’re stuck with.’
‘ In countries such as the US, Canada, France, Germany and Italy, there are 10 times the number of derms per head than there are in the UK,’ says leading dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon Dr Nick Lowe. ‘ This is because the NHS sees it as more cost- effective to train GPS rather than specialists, despite skin problems making up to a third of all GP visits.’
The upshot? It’s time to take matters into our own hands ( faces and bodies). Here’s our guide to discovering your very own skin doctor.
Find Your Pd ( Personal derm)
You’ve got your PT meting out burpees and squats, but no one whipping your skin into shape. So what should you look for when choosing ‘the one’?
First up, make sure they actually are a dermatologist. ‘As there generally isn’t enough transparency in this country, there are a lot of people masquerading as “skin specialists” – from non-trained physicians to beauty therapists,’ warns Dr Lowe, who suggests looking at the British Association Of Dermatologists and also making sure that they have either the initials FRCP (Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians) or MRCP (Member of the Royal College of Physicians) after their name. Secondly, as specialist dermatologist and founder of the Eudelo clinic, Dr Stefanie Williams, points out, different derms have different special interests, so if you would like advice on both medical skin concerns as well as more cosmetic issues, then a cosmetic dermatologist might be a good solution. ‘Not every dermatologist is experienced – or even interested in – cosmetic dermatology or aesthetic medicine, whereas cosmetic dermatologists have completed additional training in procedures such as line-smoothing injections and cosmeceutical skincare.’
And if you’re blighted by a particularly bad case of a certain skin affliction, then you need to see a specialist for that disease, advises consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic, Dr Mayou. ‘ Various conditions like eczema and psoriasis are very common but, if you’ve got a case that needs medical treatment, you need to be seeing someone whose daily bread and butter is doing that – usually on the NHS.’
And then there’s the question of compatibility. ‘ In order to find someone who best suits your specific needs, do physical in- person shopping,’ says Dr Harold Lancer, dermatologist to the A-list. ‘ It’s much more than the dermatologist having the knowledge competencies, it’s also part personality and part artistry.’ (If only there was a Tinder for derms…)
‘It’s important that you and the person
treating you are on the same page,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘By sharing testimonials online you can get a good sense of what a particular individual is about.’ Although be cautious with anyone who doesn’t charge for a consultation. ‘Be suspicious. In my opinion it can be the most valuable part of the whole assessment. While a lot of clinics may not charge you initially, they may want to channel you down a nurse-led treatment path – like peels or laser – that’s not done in a particularly personal way and might be more about revenue generation.’
‘ Much like a personal trainer, it’s important to have a rapport with your dermatologist,’ agrees Dr Mayou. ‘I always think that personal recommendation is one of the strongest deciding factors, although, if you’re looking for a cosmetic dermatologist, you can also judge their skin to ensure they don’t look “overdone” themselves.’
According to Mintel, the younger generation are self- diagnosing skin issues and are more likely to turn to online
influencers than a derm – something that makes most skin doctors shudder. ‘ I see patients all the time looking things up on the internet and getting it wrong,’ agrees Dr Mayou. While many derms these days connect with patients via phone images, Skype and Facetime, most agree that there’s simply no substitute for a good old- fashioned face- to- face consultation. Images are always open to misinterpretation and many skin diseases such as eczema can appear different depending on which part of the body they’re located. So what online tools do they recommend?
‘ We’re a little behind the US in terms of creating safe apps for patients,’ says Dr Bunting, who has set up a closed Facebook group to create a safer place to share images and get advice (drsamanthabunting). Dr Stefanie Williams recommends dermnetnz. org as a hugely informative website and, to keep an eye on your moles, a mole checker app such as Miiskin can be useful. (On a frivolous note, we rather like the RYNKL app, which tracks signs of ageing on your face to see if that must-have serum really was worth the splurge.)