Get a headstart on healthy hair

Your hair’s texture and density dictates everything from style to health. If you want the best hair of your life, you need to start with the perfect base

YOU MAY HAVE WORKED OUT how to combat frizz, excess oil and dryness, but have you invested in the best products for your hair’s texture? Unlike the ‘state’ of your hair, which can change over time, the texture, or width of individual strands, is what you’re born with. ‘People often mistake the two and so will describe their texture as dry, frizzy or oily,’ says trichologist and all-round healthy hair aficionado Anabel Kingsley. ‘But “dryness” is a term that describes the condition your hair is in, not your hair’s actual texture. Depending on the hair texture you have, the products you should use to combat dryness will be different.’ First thing’s first: work out your true texture to get a headstart on healthier hair.

F IN E

Don’t confuse the density of your hair with diameter – people who have fine hair can still have a lot of it. But, because each hair has an oil gland attached, fine hair has a tendency to get oily quickly and look thin or limp. In most cases, fine hair will be straight and won’t hold a curl well, so you’ll need to add body. Use a clarifying shampoo once a week to rid your hair of build-up and apply conditioner from the mid-lengths only. If you want extra volume and longer-lasting style, try a lightweight volumising mousse, which will help increase the diameter of your hair strands, while absorbing oil at the roots.

MEDIUM

Medium hair is wider in diameter, so the oil from your scalp won’t travel as far down the strand as it does with finer hair. This is because fine hair normally consists of just two layers, while medium hair is comprised of three: cortex, cuticle and medulla, so the natural oil has further to travel. Look for products that will help distribute your natural oils along the length of your hair shaft, like a bristle brush, and top up moisture weekly with a hydrating hair mask. But be wary about formulas: anything too thick will weigh hair down and steal your oomph.

COARSE

Because the diameter of this hair type is the largest and the cuticle isn’t smooth, it’s most prone to moisture evaporation. When a cuticle’s layers peel away from hair, the ability to trap moisture is compromised and because coarse hair has a bigger surface area, it loses even more, which results in true dryness. Choose a highly concentrated conditioner that is formulated to both strengthen hair and promote elasticity, then seal your hair cuticles (the tips of your hair) with keratin-based serums to help smooth the hair shaft, as well as combat humidity and frizz.

AFRO TEXTURED

Due to its unique structure of being flat with twists and a thin diameter, this hair texture is the most vulnerable and prone to breaking. ‘Growth and hydration are the biggest concerns my Afro-textured hair clients face,’ explains multi-award-winning hairstylist and product founder Charlotte Mensah. ‘ The key is to keep it hydrated and protected. It soaks up moisture like a sponge, so I always advise my clients to moisturise hair daily with a light cream or oil and apply heat when treating hair with masks. Covering hair with a silk scarf at night will also help to retain moisture.’