Rise of the trendless brand
You’d need a hefty dose of fortitude – and perhaps a dash of foolishness – to set up a new brand now. Fashion is a tough business at the best of times, but against the backdrop of an uncertain socio-economic climate, the forecast can appear gloomy, even for the biggest players.
Despite this outlook, a trio of exciting new names are launching this month. And don’t think they’re making a cheap play for popularity via obvious hits and social media clickbait; instead Gerbase, Ssōne and Gauge81 have each anchored their agenda in radical, refreshing authenticity. Introducing the trendless brand (that, by the way, is a compliment).
They join the likes of Refine and Tove, which launched earlier this year, both dealing in simple silk pieces that look both new and as if they’ve been in your wardrobe for years. Even street style photographer Tommy Ton – of original street style blog Jak & Jil – is now better known as the designer behind the restrained elegance of Deveaux.
Trendless doesn’t mean ‘boring’, nor is it a euphemism for minimalism. Rather consider it a liberating gesture; a removal of the rigid diktats of trends. ‘Our woman feels optimistic, inspired, she’s searching for a meaningful and considerate way to enjoy fashion, like she is making a difference,’ says Ssōne founder, Caroline Smithson. ‘We know she has her own mind, and doesn’t need our directive.’ ‘The woman that is drawn to Gerbase is fiercely independent – she knows who she is and experiments with her style,’ agrees Paula Gerbase.
To subscribe to a trendless version of dressing is also to follow an inherently circular approach to fashion. Obvious trends date – fast. Choosing slowburn pieces contributes to a more considered fashion life cycle. These pieces are designed to last, on every level. And that’s comforting because while you might not know who’ll be PM in six months, you can guarantee Ssōne’s ecru denim skirt will still feel relevant.
GERBASE
Creative director of John Lobb and her former own label 1205, Paula Gerbase is already a fashion success. But in 2016 she was feeling stifled ‘with my way of working and the seasonal aspect of fashion, which didn’t feel right for how we live today’. She travelled Europe and inspiration struck for a new multi-disciplinary label. ‘I wanted to explore a creative freedom, and design based on feelings and rhythms rather than specific seasons,’ she explains. The collection includes 18-ct gold fine jewellery, a Skins capsule of fine layering pieces, and made-to-order tailoring. ‘Gerbase was formed not to pump out numbers of product per season, but as a new creative-led way of working,’ says Paula. ‘It’s a reflection of my evolving interests and it has no boundaries.’ Available now, gerbase.com
GAUGE81
‘I’ve seen a change in the marketplace, women wanting better pieces, rather than more,’ says Monika Silva, a Columbian knitwear designer who founded Gauge81 after relocating to Amsterdam. Don’t just read ‘better’ as a comment on quality, but how hard each item – like a pared-back LBD with asymmetric strap or zippy lime green sweater – works. ‘The collection is focused on pieces that can be layered or worn alone and take you straight from the office to a cocktail party,’ she says. By bringing multiple uses to one garment we are pushing a less-is-more approach, following the more streamlined global trend’.
Available now, net-a-porter.com, shopbop.com, ssense.com
SŌNE
‘I definitely feel a shift towards a more considerate way of shopping,’ says Ssōne founder Caroline Smithson. The name is a play on the word ‘sewn’, and the debut collection ‘The Visible Hand’ is a celebration of craftsmanship. ‘We are exploring the best processes both environmentally and humanely,’ she explains. A balloon-sleeved linen dress and tobacco cape make a play for future classic status, so it’s no surprise Caroline says, ‘We are driven by the idea of building the collection as a non-seasonal “uniform” with repeat styles evolving and improving with more responsible production techniques. We don’t work to seasons, with the intention that the wearer is never “out of fashion’’.’
Available from 6 September, ssone.com and matchesfashion.com