The ‘flareline index’ is ruling our wardrobes
YOU MAY HAVE heard of the hemline index, economist George Taylor’s 1926 theory that dress and skirt hemlines fluctuate with the economy. During strong periods, hemlines got shorter. When times were hard, they dropped. This may not be water-tight, but it may actually hold some weight. After the economy crashed in 2008, for example, we saw the explosion of midiskirts and dresses on the catwalks and high street. But could jeans have replaced hemlines as a sartorial indicator of our current social and political situation? From Celine and Paco Rabanne to Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the S/S ’20 shows taught us that this year flares are back in a big way. And a slew of celebrities, including Margot Robbie and Harry Styles, have taken to the look, too. But what’s the reason for this sudden resurgence? It may have something to do with our uncertain times. When flares exploded on to the scene in the late ’60s, they were a reaction to the conservative, often prim dress codes of the ’50s. Suddenly, not only were women wearing trousers, but the trousers in question were a symbol of gender nonconformity, as brands like Levi’s made unisex flares. Jill Guenza, global VP of women’s design at Levi’s, explains, ‘The ’70s was a decade of activism, and that was reflected in the hip-hugging flares that represented liberation and feminism. We are entering a similar cultural moment in which there’s a greater awareness of the biggest challenges of our times, such as environmental issues and gender inequality.’
Guenza agrees that nostalgia may have something to do with flares’ return – and that, given the political uncertainty, perhaps it makes sense that we’re all craving something familiar. This is already being reflected in our shopping habits, too. Since September, when flares hit the catwalks, Lyst reports that searches for ‘flared jeans’ have been growing continuously, with Frame, Free People and Levi’s being the most popular brands. Similarly, Heather Gramston, buying manager at Browns, says they have invested heavily in flares for next season to meet higher customer demand. ‘Our customers love them for their retro feel while also being super-flattering.’
Wear with a long-line blazer to make the most of the elongated proportions flares give or, if you really want to be the living embodiment of S/S ’20, tuck in a denim shirt and reclaim double denim from early noughties-era Justin and Britney. Yes, really…