Try face forecasting

There’s a way to treat skin flare-ups before they occur,

when it comes to the skin, no one likes to be caught off guard. Out-of-the-blue breakouts, unexpected dryness – we could do without them. But, while the typical reaction to erratic skin issues like these is to treat them as they happen, what if we got ahead of the game and looked to our future skin instead? ‘It is entirely possible to prepare for and prevent complexion issues, rather than acting on the back foot,’ says Georgie Cleeve, founder of Oskia Skincare. Welcome to ‘face forecasting’: a way of pre-empting the skin’s behaviour according to your schedule. Think of it as putting the groundwork in early, so that whatever life throws at you won’t show through your skin. Whether it’s almost your period, or you’ve got a hectic week ahead, you can adjust your regime to dodge a nasty skin surprise.

HORMONES CALLING

In the days leading up to your period, you might be feeling the strain emotionally, but your skin’s probably suffering too. ‘A rise in oestrogen levels can trigger the sebaceous glands to secrete more sebum, which can clog pores and result in breakouts,’ explains Dr Howard Murad, dermatologist and founder of Murad Skincare. Spot treatments and concealers are all well and good during your period, but it’s what you do in the lead up to it that counts. ‘I’d recommend anyone who suffers with hormonal breakouts make the switch to a salicylic acid-based cleanser four to five days before her period is due,’ Cleeve advises. Both this and glycolic acid are chemical exfoliators that, among other things, work extra hard to unclog pores and keep them free of excess sebum. While regular cleansing and exfoliating twice a week are a given at any time of the month, Dr Murad recommends that you add a skin-soothing clay mask into your regime when your premenstrual countdown begins. ‘It’ll deep clean the skin and draw out impurities while absorbing that excess oil,’ he explains.

SEASONAL SWITCH

Both cold air and central heating can have a negative impact on the skin, just as heat and air conditioning can in the summer. ‘Our skin reacts continuously to its surroundings so changes can be put down to a switch in environment, including the change in seasons,’ says Cleeve. So what happens to the skin when the weather starts to transition? ‘Dullness and dryness are key culprits moving into winter, while increased oiliness and non-hormonal outbreaks are signs that your skincare routine is too heavy coming into summer.’

According to Cleeve, there are four things to plan ahead for now as spring is on the horizon. The first is upping your pollution protection. ‘As temperatures slowly begin to rise, so do pollution levels – inside and out – and heat and UV stimulate free-radicals,’ she says. Start using a topical antioxidant now but make sure it is clinically proven because ‘antioxidants are incredibly volatile and can become pro-oxidant very easily’. Next up is switching your exfoliator. ‘Exfoliation is key during any transitional stage for unclogging pores, stimulating cellular regeneration and boosting hydration. Lactic acid is one of the few acid exfoliators that do this,’ says Cleeve. And finally, as spring approaches, build up your SPF but don’t neglect your vitamin D levels completely. ‘Vitamin D optimises the skin’s immune system and helps destroy free radicals,’ says Cleeve. ‘I recommend you either start using a topical pro-vitamin D3 or take vitamin D supplements.’

STRESS ALERT

Stressful week at work ahead? Charlotte Ferguson, psychotherapist and founder of Disciple London explains what might happen to your skin. ‘Stress causes cortisol to surge through the body, affecting every organ,’ she says. ‘Skin is the largest organ meaning that collagen is broken down, the skin becomes oilier and pores get clogged up and inflamed.’ The first step is to start taking a CBD supplement when you know stress is on the horizon. ‘It can help the body deal with it better because it lessens the effects of cortisol in the body,’ she explains. Another cortisol-combatting ingredient is neurophroline. ‘It’s relatively new (and natural), helps reduce cortisol and lessen the chances of irritation and

breakouts,’ says Ferguson. Also, adding salicylic acid into your cleansing regime will help keep future oiliness at bay. ‘A good deep cleanse in the evening is key, followed by a light rinse in the morning so that you don’t strip your skin,’ she adds. ‘Also, a mask containing AHAS will help avoid clogged pores and, if your skin typically becomes more sensitive during stress, start using fragrance-free skincare.’ The same advice goes for if you know you’re going to be embarking on a heavy weekend. Overindulging results in stressed skin, so the key here is hydration. ‘Start using a hyaluronic acid serum and apply a mask twice a week to prep the skin and encourage cell turnover,’ Ferguson advises.

PITTER PATTER

We’re all familiar with the well-known perks of pregnancy – eating for two (don’t try telling us this isn’t a thing), a radiant glow and a cute little bundle to finish. But there’s a common downside to pregnancy too – hyperpigmentation (or melasma, as it’s also known) which is when dark patches appear on the skin. ‘It is synthesised in the melanocytes, which produce four different types of melanin, and we believe it is caused by a fluctuation of hormones,’ explains Cleeve. You might think that starting to exfoliate more frequently might help pre-empt the problem but, according to Cleeve, this is only advisable once the melasma has appeared. However, while there is no cure, Cleeve believes certain ingredients used early on in pregnancy can counterbalance the effect of your hormonal changes and keep pigmentation in check. ‘All antioxidants will help – glutathione in particular – as well as vitamin C, the safer alternative to retinol, which should be avoided during pregnancy,’ she says. ‘Niacinamide (vitamin B3) inhibits inflammatory mediators, reducing hyperpigmentation, and increases overall skin lightening. And zinc glycinate reduces tyrosinase, which is what stimulates melanin production in the first place.’ Keep applying your SPF all year round during pregnancy, too.