How to do a dark lip
Nothing adds instant drama quite like a dark and stormy lip. Glosses at the ready
a dark, rich, vinyl lip is undoubtedly glam. But it can also be a tricky, hairtrapping texture to contend with. Want to make an inky glazed lip work for you, but not sure how to do it? We called on Jamie Coombes, Dior International pro make-up artist, to find out how to glow-up with gloss.
COLOUR MATCH
First things first, find a dark shade you love. ‘The best way to find the right colour is to try it on. If your eye colour pops and your face comes alive, then it’s a sure winner,’ says Jamie. ‘Also, don’t just look at how it works on your face, have a second look in a full-length mirror. Your lip colour should fit in with your personal style, too.’
DECIPHERING THOSE DARK SHADES
A colour that works for you is one you love and feel comfortable wearing but, if you want a starting point, follow Jamie’s simple guide:
For everyone: mulberry and warm plum suit most people. For fair skin tones: berry shades in deep raspberry or blackberry work well. For tanned to olive skin tones: a burgundy or rich maroon lip looks great. For medium skin tones: try reddish browns and plums.
For deeper skin tones: give purple to dark chocolate a go.
PREP LIKE A PRO
With any dark lip, a successful end result is all in the prep. ‘Make sure your lips are smooth and hydrated. A great easy-to-use combination is the Dior Lip Sugar Scrub, £28, and Dior Lip Maximizer, £28. Apply the scrub first and then layer a touch of balm over the top. Smack your lips together and blot away any excess. Then dust a light powder over the top for your desired colour to grip to.’
LAYER CAKE
With any dark lip, you need a pencil. ‘My suggestion would be to use a dark liner over the entire lip area,’ says Jamie. Not only does this act as a primer, but it will leave a pretty stain on your lips when the gloss wears off.
There are two ways to create a rich, glazed lip. You can apply a dark lipstick or stain, followed by a clear gloss. Just look for a long-lasting lipstick or stain formula for added staying power. ‘Apply translucent powder between the liner and lipstick applications, then add gloss using your finger,’ suggests Jamie.
Alternatively, you can dab a dark lipgloss directly over the lip pencil. ‘Just be sure not to overload your lips with too much gloss,’ warns
Jamie, as thick layers will smudge and smear.
BALANCE THE GLOW
When it comes to the rest of your face, think texturally.
A glossy lip works well with a slightly more matte complexion (think velvety, not flat). Balance the look with glossy highlights. ‘I use gloss on the high points of the cheeks for that dewy-wet look,’ says Jamie.